Zainoo Blog

Syracuse and the Rocky Necropolis of Pantalica

Mar 12 2020

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

Syracuse and the Rocky Necropolis of Pantalica

©Bigstock.com/siculodoc

Did you know that parts of Sicily were populated as early as the Bronze Age? The settlement history of the island in the southernmost part of Italy can be traced back thousands, even tens of thousands of years. Even today you can retrace the historical steps of cultures long gone thanks to old monuments and ruins with an almost mythical touch. A particularly attractive compilation of ancient and antique documents was included on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2005. Syracuse and the Rocky Necropolis of Pantalica consists of three separate parts with a total area of nearly 900 ha plus a buffer zone almost six-times that. Join us on a tour of the very, very old Sicily!

Why is this site so important and worthy of protection?

When choosing new sites worthy of protection during its conferences, the UNESCO World Heritage Committee usually lists several criteria. Syracuse and the Rocky Necropolis of Pantalica first and foremost are named a remarkable testimony of Mediterranean culture where prehistoric settlements, Greek colonisation, brief Punic influence and, finally, Roman conquests come together. Don’t sleep on the cultural variety of the combined site spanning across three millennia. After all, the ruins throughout Syracuse and Ortygia exemplify how several cultural concepts from Greek and Roman beginnings to modern baroque aspects advanced architecture from all angles. The ancient significance of the city, even if it’s “only” for being the home of Archimedes, is another key factor.

Necropolis of Pantalica

©Bigstock.com/siculodoc

But first, we start about 35 km west of Syracuse in the small town Sortino. Several churches with stunning frescoes dominate its centre, but things get even more exciting once we reach the outskirts. They are home of the Rocky Necropolis of Pantalica, one of the largest necropolises in all of Sicily. It is located in the former settlement Pantalica, the namesake of the so-called Pantalica culture which left its mark on the island in the late Bronze Age and early Iron Age. The sheer size of the burial ground with over 5,000 chambered tombs suggests a very long-term use with actual finds dating the utilisation to a time between the 13^th and 8^th century BC. Greek colonisation would eventually cause the decline of the settlement. While the tombs were used as dwellings in early Christian times, hardly anything survived of Pantalica itself.

Tour the area with a guide to gain access to all areas of the necropolis and to learn everything about Pantalica’s exciting history. Five tomb areas retrace the evolution of burial rites. It wasn’t only the openings to the various chambered tombs that changed over the course of time. Climbing the hill of the old settlement, you’ll discover the anaktoron. The structure of this former princely palace is at least partially visible to the naked eye. Many other finds from the settlement and the rocky necropolis, such as ceramics, weapons and household articles, are currently on display at the Archaeological Museum of Syracuse.

Ortygia

Syracuse wasn’t actually founded on the mainland, but rather on a small island separated from the rest of the city by just a small channel. First testimonies of human settlement on Ortygia even date back to the Neolithic Age followed by several finds from the early and mid-Bronze Age. Syracuse’s history effectively begins in 734 BC when Doric settlers from Corinth founded the city on Ortygia before quickly extending it onto the mainland. The ideal location had Syracuse quickly rise to becoming the biggest and most important polis of old Sicily. Roman troops only managed to conquer the city during the second Punic War, thereby kicking off an architectural blending on both the island and the mainland. Severe destructions after a major earthquake in 1693 led to reconstructions in a more baroque style. That’s why you’re met by this truly special architectural plurality in Syracuse.

Ortygia served as the city core in ancient times. As such, there’s a plethora of old buildings and ruins for you to see, such as:

Temple of Apollo: Built in the early 6^th century BC, research believes it to be the oldest larger Sicilian temple. It’s situated at the entrance to the historic city centre and suggests several conversions into Christian churches and Arab mosques in later times.
Porta Urbica: Fragments of this city gate erected at the end of the 5^th century BC are the only thing remaining of the island’s city walls. Dionysius I had it built as protection against the Carthaginians. The gate likely connected the Temple of Apollo to the Temple of Athena that would eventually become the…
Cathedral of Syracuse: Also known as Santa Maria delle Colonne, it used to be the site of the aforementioned Temple of Athena. Instead of tearing down the entire Doric temple when construction of a Christian basilica commenced in the 7^th century AD, parts of it were incorporated into the new building. Partial pillars are still visible from the outside and the inside. Some bricks and stalactites are exhibited in the Archaeological Museum.
Castello Maniace: Unlike many other buildings, this impressive fortress was only constructed in medieval times. Various stylistic elements, such as the Stauffer portal, the Gothic portico and the modern Stauffer stele, attest to this structure’s unusual history.

Ancient sites of Syracuse

Finally, we leave the island and head into the city itself. Discover ruins of monuments from very different eras throughout Syracuse. Don’t miss out on the following ancient sites:

Parco Archeologico della Neapoli: Founded in the early 1950s, the archaeological park of Syracuse encompasses the major ancient structures of the mainland. The craggy shapes of the more than ten old quarries, the so-called latomie, will put you under their spell, while the ruins of Hiero’s Ara make the rush of history palpable. A Greek theatre and a Roman amphitheatre are also part of this vast area. Don’t miss out on the fascinating Ear of Dionysius.
The sanctuaries: Ruins and fragments of several sanctuaries are hidden throughout the city. The ancient neighbourhood south of the church Madonna delle Lacrime unearthed the Sanctuary of Demeter and Kore from ancient Greece. Sadly, this part currently isn’t open to the public due to further archaeological evaluations.
Castello Eurialo: The fortification of Dionysius I was situated at the highest point of the ancient city, now located approx. seven kilometres outside modern Syracuse. Originally planned as the corner point of the northern and western city walls, it was connected to various districts by secret passages and could harbour up to 3,000 soldiers and 400 horsemen. The surviving ruins display Byzantine conversions of later periods.

We could go on like this forever as your tour through this unique UNESCO World Heritage Site is easily extended at will. You could easily spend a second or even a third day in Syracuse and Ortygia alone, not even including the amazing rocky necropolis. It’s now or never for your holiday on Sicily!

Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park

Feb 27 2020

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park, UNESCO

©Bigstock.com/Pfmphotostock

You’ve certainly heard us say this many times before, but it absolutely bears repeating in this case: Italy’s magnificent nature with its highly diverse wildlife is most certainly worth protecting. Numerous national parks throughout the country assume this task. Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park was only established in 1991 and declared UNESCO World Heritage Site a mere seven years later – a rapid, almost unprecedented rise. But what is it that makes this park so unique? Unrivalled scenery aside, several invaluable archaeological and historical sites are hidden throughout the sweeping territory. It is now time to discover those very sites as well as Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park together.

The National Park

First things first, let’s immerse ourselves in the stunning world of the park itself. Italy’s second-largest national park is located in the province of Salerno in Campania. Covering an impressive 181,048 hectares, it stretches from the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea to the Vallo di Diano valley on the foot of the Apennines. Let the diversity of this region enchant you with highlights such as Monte Cervati, the highest mountain of the park at 1,898 m, the amazing gorge of Calore, the river valleys covered with forests and olive groves, or the breathtaking blend of imposing steep coasts and wide sandy beaches. The coastal region in peak season aside, you get to experience virtually empty beaches and completely sleepy villages in spring and autumn. Hikers and cyclists cherish the diverse selection of marked routes. But there’s also quite a lot in store for divers and snorkelers, paragliders, white water adventurers, cave explorers and horseback riding enthusiasts.

Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park

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It’s easy to overlook what Cilento and Vallo di Diano is actually all about with all of those adventures and explorations, but its highly diverse wildlife possesses an undeniable allure. According to park administration estimates, about 1,800 different species of wild plant can be found throughout the entire area, about 10% of which are endangered. The more mountainous zones don’t just offer ideal fertile soil for beeches, holly oaks, alders and chestnuts, it also provides the perfect habitat for golden eagles, alpine rock partridges and the Corsica rabbit. Even wolves and alpine ibexes have made the ranges their home. The streams of Calore Valley are home to fire salamanders, spectacled salamanders and the endangered otter. Water buffalos, whose milk is the foundation for the popular buffalo mozzarella, can be found in this region, too. And don’t even get us started on the many other quaint, inviting places, such as the friendly coastal village Marina di Camerota or Palinuro with its particularly clear water and mysterious caves…

Archaeological site in Paestum

After this crash course in national park culture we move on to a decisively more historical field consisting of a whopping three places that were also declared UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our first stop leads us to Paestum in Capaccio. Greeks founded Poseidonia, the colony of a colony (a so-called “apoikia”), here around 600 BC. The upcountry location suggests that the main criterium for settling there was the particularly fertile soil. The city achieved impressive wealth over the course of just a few generations. Large temples were built. When taking over Campania from 274 to 273 BC, the Romans called the area Paestum, reshaped it recklessly and let it drift into oblivion. Completely abandoned after the fall of the Roman Empire, the rediscovery around 1752 – almost at the same time as Pompeii and Herculaneum, by the way – caused quite a stir. Paestum became an integral part of the education-based Grand Tour of young upper-class men.

Today you get to see numerous ruins and ancient monuments dating back to Greek and Roman times. Your main focus should be on the three large Doric temples. Each one of them – the archaic Hera temple, the rather unusually vested Athena temple and the technically mature Poseidon temple – represents a different architectural era. The small Roman amphitheatre, the comitium (a civic assembly place) and the long city walls will catch your eye as well. The museum features a collection of important Greek antiquities from Lower Italy with ostentatious tomb displays and slabs.

Archaeological site in Velia

Also known as Elea in Greek times, Velia was an important port town in ancient Greece and the home of the Eleatic school of philosophers, one of the oldest of its kind. Parmenides’ concept of being and non-being had great influence on Plato. Founded by Greeks that had fled from the Persian invasion, Velia quickly became an influential trading town and served as an ally of Rome first and a valuable military base later during both Punic Wars. Relocated trade routes and harbour siltation impoverished Velia leading to its eventual abandonment around the 9^th century AD.

Only the harbour area somewhat survived the times. Porta Rosa is of special significance. The gate was used as both a connection between two districts and as a viaduct supplying the high-lying acropolis with water. You can still view the acropolis, too, as well as various Hellenic and Roman temples.

Padula Charterhouse

Finally, we take a look at Italy’s largest and likely best-known charterhouse with a total area of 250,000 m² (including the park), 30,000 m² of which are overbuilt. Founded by Tommaso Sanseverino, Count of Marsico, on 28 January 1306, it would take close to 70 years until the completion of the minster. Several alternations and expansions were to follow. Baroque elements now shape both the garden and the monastery. 84 pillars frame the largest cloister in the world (12,000 m²). Padula Charterhouse was abandoned in 1866 with restoration works commencing about 100 years later. Nowadays, this monumental building managed to retain its former baroque shine housing the Archaeological Museum of Western Lucania with exciting finds from the necropolis of Sala Consilina and Padula.

The astonishing variety and spectrum of this UNESCO World Heritage Site continues to impress time and time again. You can spend several weeks in the national park area with its diverse sports and leisure options, sleepy villages and invaluable historical sights without even getting remotely enough, let alone having experienced everything. We cannot recommend a trip to Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park highly enough, particularly beyond the peak summer season.

Sacri Monti of Piedmont and Lombardy

Feb 13 2020

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

The Late Middle Ages saw a steady decline of pilgrimages to the Holy Land. Italian believers started looking for other places and destinations. Numerous chapels, basilicas and other religious buildings in larger cities aside, a series of nine chapel facilities and pilgrimage churches was built at lakes and on mountains, mostly during the late 16^th and the 17^th century. The Sacri Monti are dedicated to various aspects of Christianity whilst being perfectly embedded into the stunning scenery. These nine facilities in Northern Italy – eight of which are in Piedmont with another one located in Lombardy – were declared UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003. Time for a look at these marvels.

Sacro Monte di Varallo

©Bigstock.com/Luca Lorenzelli

The symbolisation of the Holy Land, which had become inaccessible for many pilgrims, commenced in 1491 by laying the foundation for Varallo, the 45-part place of pilgrimage, completed after around 150 years. Comparatively unknown painters and architects worked on a plethora of stunning paintings and sculptures gracing the numerous chapels. 600 life-sized figures made of wood and terracotta and another 4,000 painted figures are distributed across the various buildings. Don’t miss out on a trip to the grand pilgrimage church dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

Sacro Monte di Crea

The chapels on the hills of Basso Monferrato are a bit older originally featuring depictions from the life of the Virgin Mary. During the Sacri Monti endeavours, mostly prompted by the Franciscan Costantino Massino, the existing structures at this site of pilgrimage attributed to Saint Eusebius of Vercelli were changed repeatedly from 1581 onward. Partial destruction in 1820 led to extensive restoration works. As a result, you now get to look forward to an exciting mix of different styles on your path to the large pilgrimage church with the Paradise Chapel as the main highlight. Walking through the protected nature park of Sacro Monte di Crea, you get to see plant species that have mostly disappeared from the wild.

Sacro Monte d’Orta

The pilgrimage route above Orta San Giulio in the province of Novara features 20 chapels all dedicated to a single saint. Your walk unearths a plethora of scenes from the life of Saint Francis of Assisi ranging from his birth to the calling to his works, death and the miracle of the saint. Original plans even consisted of 36 chapels, sadly met with organisational issues – no problem, though, as the existing buildings are a breathtaking charm by themselves. Meet pilgrims from all over the world along this spiralled path. They are magically attracted to the church on the summit of the Sacro Monte. Originally dating back to the 11^th century and consecrated to Saint Nicholas, the re-design inspired by the lower Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi had Saint Francis “rise” to the role of co-patron saint.

Sacro Monte di Varese

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Believers attributed the victory in the Battle of Lepanto in 1571 to their intercessions. Initiated by the Capuchin monk Giovanni Battista Aguggiari from Monza, this sacred mountain was founded in 1604 and dedicated to the mysteries of the rosary. The former medieval ritual place turned convent became a pilgrimage church dedicated to the Virgin Mary with a special wall-framed road leading up the hill. Along the way you come across 14 chapels with Palladio-style sculptures. Subtle variations make each and every building unique and worth visiting.

Sacro Monte d’Oropa

Pilgrims were already familiar with Biella, as the Oropa district had been home to various chapels and other religious sites. However, they were renewed, converted and complemented by additional buildings starting in 1620. 19 chapels now line the pilgrimage route, twelve of which – arranged almost parallelly – are dedicated to the life of the Virgin Mary. The other seven deal with various other topics of Christianity. Contrary to comparable sites, Sacro Monte d’Oropa relies on distinctly alpine features with slab coverings, thereby connecting the classic religious style of its time with local flair – a truly interesting experience.

Sacro Monte d’Ossuccio

Similar to Varese, the site of pilgrimage in Ossuccio at the western shore of Lake Como is devoted to depictions of the mysteries of the rosary. 230 terracotta statues in 14 chapels, all built between 1635 and 1710, express the joyful, painful and glorious mysteries. The upward path extends from the annunciation to the temple to the crucifixion and resurrection to Mary’s assumption to heaven. Having arrived on the top, the Catholic pilgrimage church concludes the pilgrimage route as its 15^th part. See the coronation of the Mother of God on the high altar, magnificently highlighted by light and shadow.

Sacro Monte di Ghiffa

According to legend, there had already been a chapel above Ghiffa at Lago Maggiore as early as the 4^th century. A documented Romanesque oratory was established in the 12^th and 13^th century and constantly expanded due to a constant influx of pilgrims. It would take until the late 16^th century before this site was turned into a Sacro Monte. Three chapels depicting biblical scenes, an arbour path with Stations of the Cross and the rather strictly vested pilgrimage church invite you to go on a foray through the history of the Bible. Additionally, there’s a special nature reserve around Sacro Monte di Ghiffa. It was carefully reforested over the last decades now inviting you to go on quiet, reflective walks.

Sacro Monte di Domodossola

Two Capuchins picked the hill Colle Mattarella above Domodosso as the perfect site for a place of pilgrimage in 1656. Ultimately, twelve chapels dedicated to Stations of the Cross and another one about the resurrection were built. The glorious depictions – some statuary, others as frescoes – accompany you on your summit hike where the octagonal pilgrimage church already awaits you. The associated park is at least as exciting as the Sacro Monte itself. Your walk leads you to the ruins of a castle destroyed by Swiss soldiers in 1415 and the amazing nature and wildlife of this special nature reserve.

Sacro Monte di Belmonte

The final Sacri Monti chapter took the longest to establish and to complete. An initiative of the devout Friar Minor Michelangelo da Montiglio led to the commencement of this project in 1712. It took over 100 years until its completion due to several disruptions. All chapels were built in set gaps to one another. Composition and endowment of the structures dedicated to the mysteries of the rosary are fairly uniform suggesting one single architect who remained anonymous. The sanctuary surrounded by lush, green vegetation already awaits you.

You don’t have to be a believer to fall under the spell of the breathtaking Sacri Monti. Nine highly different yet in some way seemingly unitary sites of pilgrimage invite you on a slightly different expedition of Northern Italy. Let yourself be amazed by sophisticated architecture, astonishing art and exciting natural beauty!

Historic centre of San Gimignano

Jan 30 2020

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

A long drive through the hills of Tuscany on narrow roads with even narrower hairpin turns proves to be unbelievably nerve-racking, particularly when travelling in coach. While you’re still trying to catch your breath, San Gimignano pops up before your very eyes. The stunning small town is also known as “Medieval Manhattan” or “Town of Fine Towers” due to the 72 tower houses that used to adorn the medieval trading centre. Only 15 survived to this very day. San Gimignano’s entire historic centre was already declared UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1990 and provides gripping insights into days long gone. And don’t even get us started on what’s likely the best ice cream in the world…

The arms race of patrician families

Historic centre of San Gimignano, UNESCO

©Bigstock.com/Jorisvo

The tremendous tower houses and equally enthralling palaces and churches are predominantly the result of the vanities of medieval patrician families stemming from an era heavily affected by repeated feuds and disputes. Those families tried to one-up each other constantly, particularly during times of conflicts and controversies in the 12^th and 13^th century. San Gimignano itself was a rich town. Its central location at the trade route Via Francigena plus the saffron cultivation and trade – saffron was used to dye silk fabrics – facilitated a boom period of 160 years that only ceased in the Late Middle Ages when drained swamps created easier routes rendering the Via Francigena mostly useless. San Gimignano sunk into poverty; later eras left hardly any marks.

Before all of that, however, massive towers rose into the sky leading to an arms race. These tower houses were originally intended for residential and protective purposes as the very limited space in San Gimignano prohibited wide-spread construction and led, quite literally, to dizzying heights. The functional outset quickly turned into something more prestigious. Once an adverse family had added another floor, one’s own tower house needed to be expanded or – even better – a new, even grander tower had to be built. However, these disputes also led to the destruction of numerous tower houses. In addition, the decay in later centuries and certain urbanistic projects caused the demolition of other formerly prime specimen. 15 tower houses remain in San Gimignano.

Tower houses and fortifications

©Bigstock.com/Jorisvo

Just to get this out of the way, we won’t name each and every sight that’s part of this impressive World Heritage Site, simply because there are far, far too many. Instead, we’ve prepared a few select highlights for you. Oh, and don’t forget to stop at one of the many ice cream parlours during your walk through the historic centre, because San Gimignano is home of genuine, award-winning ice cream world champions.

But that’s enough of the sweet, ice-cold treats for now (then again, can there ever be enough?) – here are some of the most beautiful tower houses and fortifications of San Gimignano:

Torre Grossa: As mentioned, size actually mattered in the Middle Ages. Torre Grossa is part of the town hall ensemble Palazzo del Popolo. It is San Gimignano’s tallest tower house at a whopping 54 m.
Torre Rognosa: Let’s go from the tallest to the oldest surviving tower. Torre Rognosa reaches an impressive 52 m and was likely built around 1200. Its small, covered terrace makes it one of the most beautiful and best-preserved tower houses.
Torre Chigi: The intricate execution of the stone carvings, particularly the arches and windows, continues to amaze. Fitted precisely between medieval palaces, its beauty remains breath-taking to this very day.
The city walls: Much like Rome, San Gimignano’s fortifications weren’t built in a day. The walls were constructed in two phases and stretch across a total of almost 2.2 km. The first part was mounted around 998, the remainder followed during the 13^th and 14^th San Gimignano is currently accessible via five massive town gates with Porta San Giovanni assuming a key role. It used to house a small church that was demolished in 1922 for lack of space. The bell tower, however, survived.

Palaces and museums

That’s it for the town houses and walls, at least for a few lines. Don’t miss out on the following palaces, castles and museums in the historic centre of San Gimignano that are most definitely must-see:

Palazzo del Popolo: This building, also known as Palazzo Comunale, currently houses the town hall and is flanked by the massive Torre Grossa. Additionally, both a stunning museum and an art gallery are hidden behind the beautiful façade with its arched windows made of stone and brick. Look forward to seeing numerous fresco decorations and paintings of famous citizens.
Palazzo del Podestà: Next up is the former town hall lined by the fabulous Torre Rognosa. Both buildings are only a few steps apart. The characteristic mix of stone and brick, complemented by the large archway, emits rustic charm. Several works by Giovanni Antonio Bazzi, also known as Sodoma, can be seen above the entrance of the large hall.
Palazzo Pratellesi: This splendid example of grand architecture virtually glows thanks to its terracotta arches. If you’re lucky, you might see a stunning fresco by Vincenzo Tamagni inside the palace.
Galleria continua: Not everything in San Gimignano is about the past. The town is also home to one of the most important Italian galleries of contemporary art. Regionality meets international flair.
SanGimignano1300: If you’ve ever wondered what life inside the medieval town was some 700 years ago, this ten-part exhibition is the place to be. The 3d replicas of the former historic centre are particularly stunning. They show buildings that were destroyed centuries ago as well as emulations of Memmo di Filipuccio’s frescoes that used to grace Palazzo del Podestà.

San Gimignano’s churches

What would San Gimignano be without its churches? Countless religious buildings form yet another piece of the town centre puzzle. Time for a final look at our top suggestions for your World Heritage Site tour:

Collegiata Santa Maria Assunta: This church played a key role in the compilation of this very World Heritage Site. The UNESCO specifically highlighted the outstanding beauty of the frescoes. As such, you’ll find a richly decorated marvel behind the simple Romanesque façade. Several fresco cycles – dedicated to the Old Testament, New Testament and Last Judgement among other things – glow with an astonishing blaze of colours. Don’t sleep on the Renaissance chapels.
Sant’Agostino: San Gimignano’s second-biggest church looks massive, even monumental. The enormous 13^th century building dominates a big part of the historic centre. Look out for the 17-part fresco cycle dedicated to the life of Saint Augustine. Capella di San Bartolo harbours the mortal remains of the eponymous saint.
San Jacopo al Tempio: A closer look behind the walls made of brick and travertine unearths numerous art treasures. The one-nave church houses breathtakingly beautiful frescoes by Memmo di Filipuccio and Pier Francesco Fiorentino. Nowadays the building belongs to the nuns of San Girolamo. A covered overpass connects their convent with the church.

There are only few other places in the world offering as much excellently preserved medieval architecture in one space as the historic centre of San Gimignano. This tour across sweeping squares and through narrow alleys introduces you to a wildly fascinating era. Don’t forget to sit down every once in a while – while enjoying the best ice cream in the world, obviously – and let the unique atmosphere of the old walls sink in.

Arab-Norman Palermo and the cathedrals

Jan 16 2020

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

©Bigstock.com/peuceta

Sicily’s history of settlement couldn’t be any more exciting. Various tribes and cultures ruled the island each leaving their very own decisive mark. Excavations and research projects still unearth new evidence of these highly different cultures. Occasionally, they blended with spectacular results. Palermo exemplifies Sicily’s architectural diversity. The mix of Arab, Norman and Byzantine influences is still palpable at the city’s numerous squares. Several churches, castles and a bridge plus the two cathedrals of Monreale and Cefalù were declared UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015 inviting you to go on a gripping, fascinating round tour.

Sicily’s history of settlement

©Bigstock.com/Frog Dares

As there is a lot to cover in terms of the island’s history of settlement, we skip a few millennia to focus on the matter at hand. The division of the Roman Empire saw the Vandals taking the reins in Sicily before the Ostrogoths assumed power. Emperor Justinian I conquered the island during his endeavours to regain parts of the Western Roman Empire. The rule of the Byzantine Empire would last several centuries. It survived rebellions and a counter-emperor before the Arab conquest of Sicily hit Palermo in 831. Even though the Arabs turned many churches into mosques, they mostly let the Christians follow their own laws. New irrigation techniques brought a massive boost to agriculture.

Even though Sicily gained considerably more autonomy in the years to come, the end of the Muslim Kalbids dynasty saw it disintegrate into smaller principalities. Eventually, the Normans would begin their conquests in the second half of the 11^th century taking over Palermo in 1072. However, unlike previous rules, there was no big settlement wave allowing Jews and Muslims to continue to predominantly live in accordance with their own laws. The death of the last Norman King of Sicily in the year 1194 put the kingdom into the hands of the Hohenstaufen dynasty.

Palermo’s castles and the Ponte dell’Ammiraglio

You won’t find any buildings from Arab times today, yet we still talk about an Arab-Norman style. That’s because Arab builders and artists contributed to many different construction projects during Norman rule. As such, their distinctive style is pleasantly visible at many different places, such as Palermo’s two castles. They form the cornerstone of the first part of our UNESCO mini tour that includes a chapel and a bridge.

Palazzo dei Normanni: The Emir of Palermo had a summer residence built between two river courses in the 9^th However, the Norman king ordered the conversion of the Palazzo dei Normanni or Palazzo Reale into a noble seat of rule with many an additional change in the centuries to come. Individual parts of the façade decorated with blind arcades and the Torre Pisana are documents of Norman times while the interior houses Renaissance elements among other styles. Sala dei Venti and Stanza di Ruggero date back to King Roger II.
Cappella Palatina: The Palazzo’s chapel was also built during the reign of Roger II. Both composition and iconography are based on Roman and Byzantine rites. Experience the pure and unadulterated, close cultural interrelations of the time from the floor decorated with marble and porphyry to the wooden ceiling with Arab wood craft.
Castello della Zisa: A tall cube acts as an eye-catcher in the royal park. The former summer residence of Norman kings turned home of the Museum of Islamic Art perfects the fusion of Norman and Arab influences. Alcoves with muqarnas on the inside symbolise this clash in an impressive manner.
Ponte dell’Ammiraglio: The bridge of George of Antioch, a high-ranking court officer of Roger II, originally spanned across a branch of the river Oreto until its exsiccation in 1938. The admiral or ammiratus (hence the name) used a special Arab-Norman technique for the construction process.

The Arab-Norman churches of Palermo

Religious buildings are a major part of this UNESCO World Heritage Site with a whopping four churches in Palermo alone. Time to check out these Arab-Norman highlights!

Cathedral of Palermo: Today’s cathedral is very far removed from the original building, which was constructed as early as the 6^th century, later converted into a mosque and eventually demolished in 1169 after a severe earthquake had caused irreparable damage. The new project kicked off only a few years later with extensions and alterations carried out until the 19^th The three apses still reflect the Arab influence while the interior has since been given a new, neoclassical look.
San Giovanni degli Eremiti: Based on the previous Arab building, elements of the original still adorn the façade. Additionally, the entire classic southern wall survived the times. You’ll see old fresco remains in the sacristy during your trip inside the church. This depiction of the enthroned Mother of God and the remnants of red wall inscriptions have a timeless quality to them.
Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio: Remember George of Antioch? He founded this church which now carries his name. Byzantine iconography, Arab carving, Corinthian capitals and Catalan Gothic elements are only some of the many different represented styles. You’ll find something new and fascinating in every corner of this church.
San Cataldo: Being one of the final churches to be built in the Arab-Norman style, San Cataldo is the perfect end of your Palermo tour. Admiral Majone di Bari had it built as his private church and added stylistic influences from his Apulian home to the classic cube building. Embedded pillars and muqarnas with stepped ogives are characteristic of this era’s style.

The cathedrals of Monreale and Cefalù

The Arab-Norman style also left its mark outside Palermo. Two other cathedrals in neighbouring dioceses are featured in this UNESCO World Heritage Site making up the final part of your trip:

Cathedral of Monreale: Another example of the final part of this architectural era perfectioned the symbiosis of Norman, Arab and Byzantine elements from the massive structure to the intarsias and blind arches on the outer walls to the famous gold-lead ground mosaics. These Byzantine elements still shine in the brightest lights today and are worth a visit just by themselves. Another highlight is the lavishly designed cloister with 26 ogival arcades and double pillars in highly different shapes. You should be able to see a few more mosaics as part of the inlays.
Cathedral of Cefalù: Majestic twin towers duly welcome you during your visit. Legend has it that Roger II encountered a severe storm off Sicily’s northern shore and barely managed to reach Cefalù. Out of thankfulness he had this cathedral built, which was even supposed to be his sepulchral church. Byzantine and Norman mosaics, various tombs and sculptures await you inside.

Sicily is always worth a visit with this UNESCO World Heritage Site as yet another excellent reason to finally check out the island! Palermo, Monreale and Cefalù are home to extraordinary architectural fusion. Experience how different styles and eras found one another in a skilful and unique manner. Have fun on this unforgettable round tour!

Prehistoric pile dwellings around the Italian Alps

Dec 19 2019

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

Dwellings of different shapes, sizes and styles have been around for as long as there have been humans. They are informative documents of their time and grant insights into the culture and status of their dwellers. Instable ground conditions at lakes and in wet areas were a big issue in primeval times. Pile dwellings proved to be the solution. You can find a particularly high concentration of pile dwellings in the Alpine regions, 111 of which were declared World Heritage Site by the UNESCO in 2011. These impressive constructs, which originated between 5000 and 500 BC, are spread across a whopping six countries. 19 of these prehistoric pile dwellings around the Alps can be found in Italy, and that’s what we focus on today.

Old dwellings at shores and in the water

©Bigstock.com/inguaribile

Establishing proper housing was a tough feat with numerous challenges making the today’s endless pursuit of a building permission seem harmless. Far less tools and materials were available, the ground frequently wouldn’t cooperate, and the threat of other tribes and wild animals was always looming. Pile dwellings offered a solution for all problems. The piles used for construction – hardly wider than 15 centimetres, usually whole or split trunks – were rammed into the ground at shallows. They could reach heights of three to five metres depending on the water level. Heavy rocks at the pile foot provided additional resistance against the wash of the waves; mud, straw and bark were used as cladding.

Did you know that pile dwellings are still in use today? Well, yeah, they’re everything but prehistoric now, yet they carry on the legacy of their ancestors. Flooding-prone areas in the US, such as California, utilise modern versions without wood, while Southeast Asia and West Africa rely on the “classics”. They make wet and swampy territory habitable and weather the tides.

Pile dwellings in Lombardy

Time to get back to the prehistoric pile dwellings. It goes without saying that not every Italian find was declared UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are many more, particularly around Lake Garda. Lombardy is home to the most UNESCO sites with a total of ten.

Lavagnone: One of the most important places of discovery of the Polada culture (Bronze Age) is located four kilometres from Desenzano del Garda. Characteristic handled vessels and pile remains were found in the peat pit.
San Sivino, Gabbiano: Manerba del Garda at the southwest shore of Lake Garda is home to a stunning archaeological nature park. The two prehistoric remnants stick out quite literally.
Lugana Vecchia: Numerous remains of pile dwellings suggesting Stone Age settlements during the 2^nd millennium BC can be found in and around Sirmione.
Lucone: Polpenazze del Garda has always been all about protection, as the 10^th century castle built during the looming Hungarian invasion attests to. It goes without saying that the Bronze Age settlement relics are decisively older.
Lagazzi del Vho: Visiting Piadena, you’re quickly put under the spell of this friendly village. Don’t miss out on the pile dwellings of Lagazzi and the archaeological museum with old finds.
Bande – Corte Carpani: Cavriana is situated between Mantua and Brescia in Italy’s north. The two districts Corte Carpani and Bande carry particular archaeological significance.
Castellaro Lagusello – Fondo Tacoli: How about a little trip to Monzambano, one of Italy’s most beautiful villages? The small municipality between the provinces of Mantua, Brescia and Verona enchants.
Isolino Virginia – Camilla – Isola di San Biagio: Discover a small island with several smaller prehistoric settlement relics off the western shore of Lago di Varese.
Bodio centrale o delle Monete: Time to move to the lake’s southern shore. The Insubres settled near Bodio Lomnago. However, the pile dwellings are likely older than the Celtic tribe.
Il Sabbione o settentrionale: A quaint parish church with a little chapel accompanies your foray through Cadrezzate in the north of the region. Discover prehistoric documents during a little trip to Lago di Monate.

Pile dwellings in Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Lombardy has a lot of primeval housing relics to offer, unlike other regions. There are a neat four World Heritage Sites in Veneto and only a single one in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Still, you shouldn’t miss out on a single one.

Belvedere and Frassino: The UNESCO might list these two settlements as separate entries, but they’re located in the same town. Peschiera del Garda is home to these Bronze Age dwellings at Lago di Frassino and Lake Garda.
Tombola: These days, Cerea in the Veronese lowlands is known for its furniture manufacturing. You could say that there has always been a traditional of woodworking.
Laghetto della Costa: This little lake at the foot of Monte Ricco is slightly outside the village centre of Arquà Petrarca. A Bronze Age settlement and a Euganei necropolis were found here.
Palù di Livenza – Santissima: Water flows through yet another one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. The prehistoric dwellings were discovered around the fertile Gorgazzo spring.

Pile dwellings in Piedmont and Trentino-Alto Adige

Our grand final leads us even closer to the Alps. Two settlements each in both Trentino-Alto Adige and Piedmont mostly cover late pile dwellings. One exception aside, they were all established after 2000 BC, which doesn’t make them any less fascinating.

1-Emissario: The untouched lake Lago di Viverone with its primeval dwelling remains extends at the border between the two villages Viverone and Azeglio.
Mercurago: You might’ve heard of Arona as a Roman military base. The settlement history at Lago Maggiore is much longer, though.
Molina di Ledro: A special pile dwelling museum houses the relics of these prehistoric constructs at Lago di Ledro. You absolutely must check out the replica of a pile dwelling in the outside section!
Fiavé – Lago Carera: The oldest surviving remains date back to the year 2300 BC and can be visited free of charge in summer.

The roads to the various excavation sites, archaeological parks and shore relics might be long and winding, but it’s most definitely worth taking the trip. Discover mysterious remains of prehistoric pile dwellings and get to know sleepy villages and fascinating nature during your round trip of Northern Italy. Are you ready for your grand tour of the idyllic UNESCO World Heritage Site?

The Etruscan Necropolises of Cerveteri & Tarquinia

Dec 05 2019

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

truscan necropolises of Cerveteri and Tarquinia, UNESCO

©Bigstock.com/silviacrisman

When thinking about Italy’s ancient history, the first name that comes to mind – obviously – is Rome. The former global power, the tremendous imperium, the unique architectural and cultural heritage… but what / who was before the Romans? The Etruscans populated the northern part of Central Italy from around 800 BC until far into the second half of the 1^st century BC and left many a fascinating cultural evidence still researched intensely to this day; party due to the many mysteries surrounding them. The old burial grounds and rites of the Etruscans are regard as exceedingly interesting. As such, you’ll hardly be surprised to hear that the Etruscan Necropolises of Cerveteri and Tarquinia, two especially grand examples of such grounds, were declared UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004.

About the Etruscan culture

How the Etruscan culture actually came to Etruria – their heartland’s name, which stretches across most of today’s Tuscany, northern Lazio and parts of Umbria – is unknown. Experts believe that migration and emergence of said culture were not too far apart. There are still many theories about where the Etruscans originated – some think they immigrated from Lydia (today’s Turkey), others believe they emerged from the Iron Age Villanova culture of Bologna. First documented grave finds date back to the 9^th century BC. Various necropolises reflect significant changes in the burial rites over the course of the centuries. Several practices were carried out either at the same time or after one another allowing the historic placement of the various sites.

In fact, far too little is known about the Etruscans today. Remains of Etruscan architecture are extremely rare – only very few foundations here and there, mostly of temples, survived – objects of art depicting the transition from oriental to Greek imprint are few and far between. The language, too, has only been rudimentarily studied at best due to lack of extensive written records. Thus, the Etruscan culture still captivates researchers to this very day. While it mostly disappeared upon assimilation into the Roman Empire in pre-Christian times – the granting of unlimited civil rights around 90 BC put a formal end to Etruscan history – the hunt for clues remains an exciting challenge.

The Necropolises of Cerveteri

truscan necropolises of Cerveteri and Tarquinia

©Bigstock.com/silviacrisman

Our first stop takes us near Rome, approx. 42 km west of the capital. The friendly town of Cerveteri is situated between the Monti Sabatini and the Tyrrhenian Sea. Founded by Etruscans, it was originally called Caere or, to give it its Etruscan name, Caisra. Iron ore exports turned Cerveteri into one of the largest and most populous towns in Etruria, about 15 times its current size.

Where there was a lot of living, there was a lot of dying. Admittedly, that sounds quite morbid, but this mere fact grants you fascinating insights into a culture still heavily shrouded in mystery. The two Necropolises of Cerveteri with their thousands of graves were laid-out like a sort of city map with various squares and districts. Size and burial equipment depend on both the era and the importance of the family. Among the most important tombs are:

Tomba dei Capitelli: The tomb of the capitals looks like typical Etruscan dwellings. Its flat roofs with timber boards and straw convey a classic, almost family-like look.
Tomba dei Vasi Greci: A long corridor, highly evocative of an Etruscan temple, leads into this 6^th century BC burial site. If you’re wondering why this area is called “Tomb of the Greek Vases”, well, see for yourself.
Tomba dei Rilievi: Presumably only established around 300 BC and, thus, one of the youngest graves, a long stairwell leads you to a magnificent hall supported by massive pillars. Elaborately decorated reliefs around the 13 burial alcoves line this site granting exciting insights into the life (and death) of an affluent Etruscan family.
Tomba della Cornice: Another long corridor after the ascending entrance leads to this final resting place. Two smaller side rooms with two deathbeds each aside, the simple yet imposing architecture of the three main death rooms in the central room knows to impress.
Tomba Regolini-Galassi: Remember the oriental imprint we mentioned earlier? This feature of early Etruscan culture is visible throughout this 7^th century BC tomb, likely the oldest accessible tomb of the city. Originally, it was richly lined with gold. Many of the elaborate burial objects are currently exhibited in regional, even international museums.

Cerveteri is faced with the rather severe issue of grave robbery. The town isn’t even close to having fully explored all tombs, even less are accessible to the public. Due to the sheer mass of graves, not all entrances can be monitored allowing grave robbers with high-grade technical equipment to do their appalling deed. International auction houses in London and Los Angeles, among other cities, sell such robbed items every once in a while causing understandable upset.

Tarquinia’s Necropolises

Called Tarchuna in Etruscan times, Tarquinia played an important role in ancient culture as well. Founded during the times of the Villanova culture, the town with high tactical significance was surrounded by an eight-kilometre-long wall. Situated in north-western Lazio, it is now predominantly known for its excavation sites. The main attraction, if you will, is the Necropolis of Monterozzi at the southeast town limits where around 6,100 tumulus-covered burial chambers carved in stone were created between the 6^th and the 2^nd century BC. Around 150 chambers are decorated with frescoes. They play a key role in Etruscan art and are absolute must-sees. Visit the following burial sites:

Tomba del Cacciatore: You’ve always wanted to know what the inside of an Etruscan hunting pavilion looks like? This 4^th century BC tomb with its wooden structure provides you with thrilling insights.
Tomba della Caccia e della Pesca: The tomb of hunting and fishing displays scenes of these very aspects of life as well as a Dionysian dance. You also get to see portraits of the buried family making this site one of the best-explored in all of Tarquinia.
Tomba delle Leonesse: Enjoy deep insights into the life of Etruscan aristocracy surrounded by soaring birds and leaping dolphins. An ash container suggests that the tomb was intended for cremations.
Tomba degli Auguri: Sadly, this burial chamber, like so many other Etruscan tombs, fell victim to grave robbers. You can still the marks of the deathbeds on the ground. Wrestling scenes on the wall depict what might’ve been the predecessor of Roman gladiator fights.
Tomba dei Tori: This is the only Greek-themed tomb in Tarquinia. A depiction from the life of the hero Achilles – a typical motif of Greek vases – lines this mythologically inclined resting place.

If you’ve always wanted to enjoy deep insights into the unique Etruscan culture, this trip to north-western Lazio is a must. The necropolises display various aspects of life (and death) across half a millennium with many other excavation sites and museums in close proximity. It doesn’t get any more Etruscan than this!

The baroque Royal Palace of Caserta

Nov 28 2019

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

The charming town of Caserta in northern Campania awaits you around 40 km north of Naples. It is home to a genuine gem that even Hollywood loves. The baroque Royal Palace built in the 18^th century is a magnificent architectural masterpiece that originally served as the Bourbon residence for the kingdoms of Naples and Sicily. It was declared UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, together with its tremendous, equally impressive park. This site is a peculiarity as it also includes the formal industrial district San Leucio and the water supply facility Aqueduct of Vanvitelli – a unique mix that is worth exploring.

How the Bourbons came to Naples

The death of King August II in 1733 led to a dispute over the Polish succession to the throne, which caused the War of the Polish Succession from 1733 in 1738. Even though military conflicts, particularly in Poland, Italy and at the river Rhine, had already been settled by 1735, formalities of the succession plan delayed the signing of the Treaty of Vienna by another three years. Charles VII, son of the Spanish king, was given the kingdoms of Naples and Sicily. He was the first regent in 230 years to actually move his residence to the kingdom. As he felt Naples lacked the representative character necessary, Charles chose to have a planned town of sorts built as his residence. Works on the palace town in today’s Province of Caserta commenced.

Luigi Vanvitelli, the king’s architect of choice, was originally commissioned to restore the Basilica della Santa Casa in Loreto under papal instruction, but still moved on to work for the king. The final draft was presented on 22 November 1751, constructions began in the same year. It would take close to 100 years until completion which Vanvitelli’s son Carlo being among his fathers successor. Charles VII, however, only rarely visited the palace. He acceded to the Spanish throne in 1759 becoming Charles III and left the construction site to his eight-year-old son Ferdinand, who would reign over the later extended kingdom, with a brief Napoleonic interlude, until his death in 1825.

A tour of the monumental structure

Charles VII had two awe-inspiring palaces on his “wish list”: Palacio Real in La Granja (Spain) and the astonishing Palace of Versailles. The style of La Granja, particularly that of its gardens, was employed to remind Charles of his Spanish homeland, to which he eventually returned much earlier than expected. There over 1,200 rooms and 1,970 windows in the rectangular royal palace with lateral lengths of 247 and 184 m. Triumphal-arch-like portals adorn the sides facing the town and the garden. Financial reasons led to the abandonment of plans for a cupola over the central block and the wing on the town-facing square. Still, this site impresses tremendously.

Even though the baroque Royal Palace of Caserta was altered multiple times over the course of the last two centuries, you will still see numerous original elements of its construction period. The rooms live and breathe primal spirit with old furniture. The taste of the respective design periods becomes palpable in the different rooms allowing you to see highly different furnishing styles back-to-back and door-to-door. Among the must-sees are the Old and the New Apartment with their lavishly decorated rooms and painting collections, the Royal Apartments hidden behind three grand halls and the palace chapel that was modelled closely after the one in Versailles. Don’t miss out on the art gallery with its Bourbon portraits and the Museo Vanvitelliano with pieces from the palace’s long and illustrious history!

If one or the other room happens to look familiar, you probably love going to the cinema. Some of the rooms inside the palace were used for “Star Wars: Episode I – The Phantom Menace” and the Dan Brown adaptation “Angels & Demons” starring Tom Hanks and Ewan McGregor. Nowadays, the palace isn’t just a sight and film location, it also serves as a place of education. The technical school of the Italian Air Force is situated in the southwest part of the park, while the national administration college has its own branch here as well.

The astonishing park

Over 100 hectares of park are part of the ostentatious palace. Charles VII departed from his liking for Versailles to transport a piece of his Spanish homeland to his kingdom. The long vista of the baroque mountain garden is an astonishing three kilometres and filled with wonderous water attractions. Numerous cascades and waterfalls bring aesthetic charm to the park and level the sloping ground.

Countless fountains, richly decorated with nymphs, dragons and statues, accompany your foray through the park. How about the Fountain of the Dolphins, surrounded by three massive dolphin statues built on rocks? Or the Fountain of Diana and Actaeon with its astonishing waterfall flanked by 14 huntresses and hunters? Or the imposing Fountain of Aeolus, originally lined with 54 statues of which 23 are still left? Or… or… well, where to begin? The English Garden might be an option. It is a genuine hidden gem in a sea of water attractions with its collection of rare, exotic plants.

Aqueduct of Vanvitelli

All of these fountains, basins and waterfalls needed a lot of water, but water was a rare commodity in this region. Luigi Vanvitelli built the so-called Caroline Aqueduct, also known as the Aqueduct of Vanvitelli, to collect the water from various springs in the surrounding region and transport it to Caserta. The route from the springs of Fizzo is 38 km long with the perfectly preserved section at Valle di Maddaloni being a true architectural marvel and, as such, a key part of this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

San Leucio

Charles VII wasn’t only a patron of the fine arts; he also tried his hand at experiments. The former site of the hunting castle of the Acquaviva family was turned into a silk fabric with a workers’ village modelled after the latest findings in terms of productivity, innovation and fulfilment of workers’ needs. Ferdinand even wanted to turn it into a fully-fledged planned town, but the French invasion ended such ambitions prematurely. Still, the use of the most modern technology of its time turned San Leucio into an important industrial site of the late 18^th and beginning 19^th century. The living silk museum grants insights into the revolutionary production methods of this era.

Impressive baroque art, amazing garden aesthetics and revolutionary garden architecture accompany you through this cleverly extended, unbelievably fascinating UNESCO World Heritage Site. Caserta is always worth a visit and makes ostentatious history palpable.

Botanical Garden of Padua

Nov 14 2019

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

Botanical Garden of Padua Did you know that there are currently around 1,800 botanical gardens around the world? You find them on all continents – let’s put Antarctica aside for one moment – providing a home to special plants and their unique habitats. The mixing of science and pleasure, as the motto of the botanical garden in Kew near London puts it so neatly, has been fascinating people for almost half a millennium. The oldest botanical garden in the world actually still exists today. You can find it in Padua, approx. 30 km west of Venice. It houses various collections and habitats that could hardly be any more different.

The study of medicinal plants

Francesco Bonafede established “Lectrum Simplicium”, the study of pharmacology, in 1533. Medicinal plants played a central role as people wanted to (and had to) make use of nature’s healing powers. The studies also focused on showing the difference between such medicinal plants and similar looking, regular plant species. The Senate of the Republic of Venice founded the Botanical Garden of Padua on the premises of the Santa Giustina monastery, near the eponymous basilica, in 1545. By raising medicinal plants and providing visual aids for students, the most important purposes were established quickly.

Padua’s plant portfolio grew continuously over the course of centuries, in part due to Venice’s commercial activities that led to imports from all across the globe. As such, Padua was cutting edge when introducing and researching exotic plants. The first European lilac, sunflower and potato were all grown here. Roberto de Visiani, named director of the facilities in 1837, led the botanical garden to becoming the leading collection of European botany in the 19^th century. “Flora Dalmatica”, his life’s work, described 600 new species with over 1,000 new taxonomic names. Declared UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, the Botanical Garden of Padua continues to serve training and educational purposes for students as well as the research and preservation of rare plant species.

A walk through the garden

Botanical Garden of Padua, UNESCO Four gates, all of which were likely established during the 16^th century, lead into the oval site. Exotic plants are entwined around the wrought-iron portals giving you a first taste of what’s behind them. Geometrically laid-out paths run to the various beds around the fountain. A pharmacological museum and a library with scripts dating back to the 15^th century are also part of the garden. Five central habitats accompany you on your walk:

Mediterranean Maquis: The characteristic coastal vegetation of the Mediterranean area with its hot summers and mild winters is represented by this maquis. You will mostly find climbing plants, prickly bushes and lots of shrubbery here.
Alpinum: In stark contrast, this habitat is all about the alpine flora. The vegetation above the highland consists, among other things, of boulders held together by roots, scrubs and small trees. The mugho pine and the dwarf juniper escort you on your tour through this area.
Fresh Water Habitat: Special freshwater tanks were installed to grow characteristic aquatic plants. The Botanical Garden of Padua is known for its exact observance of the conditions in the classic freshwater habitat allowing it to settle an impressive variety.
Succulent Plants: The desert is alive in Italy. You should absolutely visit this area in spring and summer when it blossoms, as the climatic conditions keeps it under wraps outside this time. Here you see various plants from the agave family, parsley family and cactus family.
Orchid Greenhouses: Heat and high humidity create tropical conditions, quite literally. A wide variety of orchids grow in these greenhouses. Exciting shapes, shining colours and enchanting smells accompany your foray.

Other highlights in the Botanical Garden of Padua

That’s not all you get to experience during your garden visit by a long shot. Here are a few additional highlights you mustn’t miss out on:

The collections: In comparison, greenhouses are a rarity in the Botanical Garden of Padua. Most of the more than 6,000 plant species are outside and, the five habitats aside, were grouped into different collections. These include:
- Medicinal and poisonous plants (with scientific information on display)
- Mediterranean plants
- Aquatic plants
- Orchids
- Carnivorous plants
- Alpine plants
- Plants from the area surrounding the garden (Euganean Hills and Triveneto Region)
Garden of Biodiversity: This greenhouse facility was only established in 2004. A whopping investment of 20 million Euros guaranteed modern and resource-friendly construction. You find around 1,300 plants species sorted according to vegetation geography.
Old plants: The long garden history yields many a particularly old plant. Unfortunately, the chaste tree planted in 1550, a genuine rarity, died in 1984, but there’s a massive sycamore in the arboretum. It was planted in 1680 and has had a hollow trunk ever since a stroke of lightning. The small greenhouse in the Hortus Sphaericus is known for its “care of the elderly”. Aside from Europe’s oldest magnolia (mid-17^th century) and the oldest ginkgo of the continent (around 1750), the oldest plant of the entire garden grows here. The dwarf fan palm was planted in 1585 and referred to by German poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe in his essay “Geschichte meines botanischen Studiums” about his studies of botany.

The Botanical Garden of Padua is a collection of extraordinary plants and habitats, skilfully combines scientific aspects with delightful garden indulgence and whisks you away on a sort of brief trip around the world through highly different habitats and climes. Don’t miss out on this piece of world heritage!

Medici villas and gardens in Tuscany

Oct 31 2019

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

Borgia, Este, Sforza, Grimaldi – Italy’s history is also the history of influential families and noble dynasties. They left their marks on cities, even entire areas, and acted as patrons for the fine arts. The Medici most certainly belong on this list. This Florence-based family had great influence from the 15^th to the 18^th century. Several Grand Dukes of Tuscany, two Queens of France and even popes came from this family. The Medici patronage moulded the Renaissance in Florence and its surroundings. Twelve of their villas and two gardens in Tuscany were declared UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2013. Time for a tour through this stunning region!

Who were the Medici?

The family likely originates in the surroundings of Florence with first documentation dating back to the second half of the 13^th century. They belonged to the guild of merchants and were civic patricians. Salvestro de’ Medici was the first of the family to gain power about 100 years later, but his dictatorial manner got him banished quickly. The establishment of Banco Medici brought prestige, standing and wealth to the family. Cosimo de’ Medici, “Il Vecchio” (“The Elder”), would decisively contribute to the rise of Florence through his patronage of the arts and education.

The Medici reigned over Florence until 1537 with two disruptions before the city became part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Cosimo I was declared Grand Duke of Tuscany setting the stage for another successful line of rulers. It only ceased to exist in 1737 when the childless Grand Duke Gian Gastone died, and the duchy was given to Francis I of Lorraine. There are still living descendants with the famous name including Italian author Lorenzo de’ Medici. He wrote a fascinating family biography and hosted a five-part documentary series about his family’s palaces.

The Medici gardens

Here’s the big question surrounding this massive UNESCO World Heritage Site: Where on earth should you start? We’ll kick things off by taking you to the two gardens in and around Florence. The Boboli Gardens are behind Palazzo Pitti, the former home of the Medici. It is widely regarded as one of the most famous 16^th century Italian gardens with its drawn-out axes, impressive stone elements, the plurality of fountains and statues, and the grottos and nymphs creating a border between the public and semi-private areas. The creation of Eleonora of Toledo – the wife of Cosimo I – has since been turned into a garden sculpture open-air museum of sorts with exhibits dating back to Roman times.

Pratolino, a district of Vaglia, is located a few kilometres outside the city. The amazing park of the Medici villa, also known as Villa Demidoff, unfortunately lost many of its statues over the centuries. Some disappeared completely, others were re-located, e.g. to the Boboli Gardens. Only a few remained, such as the mighty Apennine Colossus by Giambologna. Written works and paintings testify to the former glory of the garden.

The villas in Florence

Now it’s finally time for the villas, and there are a whopping twelve of them, four of which are in Florence. They illustrate the power and wealth of the Medici in many different ways and date back to different eras. Where to go… well, why not to all of them!

Careggi: Unlike later buildings, the Careggi villa, of the oldest Medici villas, looks fairly rustic. While its appearance carries fortress-like qualities, there’s many a treasure hidden behind the walls. The garden with its geometrical arrangement is a true gem.
La Petraia: One of the most famous Medici villas was built on the foundations of a Brunelleschi castle toward the end of the 16^th You reach the ostentatious manor, which now serves as a museum, by crossing the multi-terraced garden that was incorporated into an English landscape garden during Lorrain reign.
Castello: In all fairness, the villa amidst the rolling hills of Florence is not that important at all. The spectacular main event, however, is the garden behind it. It is widely regarded as being the best-preserved ideal of Leon Battista Alberti’s Italian garden with three terraces and compact, geometrical form. Don’t miss out on the magical animal grotto!
Poggio Imperiale: Ready for another trip to the hills? This multi-time altered building rises near the panoramic road Viale dei Colli. Magnificent frescoes by Matteo Rosselli and his students depict the close relationship to the House of Austria. The villa is now used as a school.

Other World Heritage villas of the Medici

That was just the beginning – we have another eight Medici villas waiting for you! Their location is mostly of strategic nature planned to protect hunting grounds and valuable sources of income. However, fine arts and summer resorts played a key role as well.

Cerreto Guidi: This amazing hunting seat is situated about halfway between Florence and Lucca. The protected hillside location makes the villa of Cerreto Guidi visible from afar. It currently houses an interesting little hunting museum.
Fiesole: Unlike many other older Medici villas, the one in Fiesole is still in pretty great shape. The Medici used to relax here and found intellectual stimulation. There’s another fascinating garden with lemon trees behind it. Sightseeing is, however, rather difficult, as the villa is privately owned.
Poggio: The former Medici summer resort has been turned into one massive museum. Here you can experience frescoes, musical instruments and other items from the life and rule of the family. However, little remains of the former decoration. Instead, the spectacular architecture – Poggio is likely the first manorial villa of the Renaissance – impresses quite a bit.
La Magia: This building in the heart of Quarrata is rather small but nice. Grand Duke Francesco I bought La Magia in 1583 to extend his hunting grounds. Now owned by the municipality, the villa has a rather simple and clean look including an inviting garden.
Artimino: This villa on the ridge of Monte Albano features no garden whatsoever due to lack of water in this mountainous region. Instead, a lot of heart and dedication was put into this building, currently serving as an event venue to rent, with many restorations allowing it to retains its original charm.
Cafaggiolo: This former castle was already owned by the family in the early 15^th century before its conversion into a still rather fortress-like villa a few decades later. Unfortunately, the Borghese had the walls and towers torn down in the 19^th The Renaissance garden was lost along the way as well.
Trebbio: Visits of this early Medici villas are a rarity due to private ownership. If you get the chance, go for it! This particularly old building with its truly tremendous terrace garden still impresses to this very day.
Seravezza: Several paintings, such as the one by Giusto Utens, adumbrate the former charm of this villa in the Province of Lucca. The Seravezza location allowed Cosimo I to secure his claim to the marble quarries, the silver and lead mines. As such, the building was mostly a means to an end. The old garden sadly disappeared.

There’s a lot of work waiting for you if you really want to visit all Medici gardens and villas. It is most certainly worth the effort as you get to see exciting buildings, amazing gardens, wonderful cities and cute villages in idyllic Tuscany. Enjoy your truly unforgettable journey!

Syracuse and the Rocky Necropolis of Pantalica

Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park

Sacri Monti of Piedmont and Lombardy

Historic centre of San Gimignano

Arab-Norman Palermo and the cathedrals

Prehistoric pile dwellings around the Italian Alps

The Etruscan Necropolises of Cerveteri & Tarquinia

The baroque Royal Palace of Caserta

Botanical Garden of Padua

Medici villas and gardens in Tuscany

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