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City of arts Trento – prince-bishopric turned fortress

Jan 14 2021

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

Val d’Adige opens up south of the imposing rock giants of the Dolomites. Surrounded by Monte Calisio, Marzola, Becco di Filadonna, Monte Bondone and Paganella, the city of arts Trento invites you into the heart of a former prince-bishopric that was later turned into an enormous fortress. The capital of Trentino-Alto Adige now documents its gripping history in countless museums and at thrilling sites between the stunning old centre and scenic hills. Ranging from early-Christian ruins to modern art, from the roots of counter-reformation to the beginning of aviation, you get to look forward to exciting highlights as far as the eye can see. Find out here what you absolutely must see and what you should know about Trento.

Where the counter-reformation began

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It took Trento fairly long to gain historic significance, until around the 16^th century to be precise. However, that doesn’t mean that the region was completely empty before that. Early settlements in Val d’Adige were recorded in prehistoric times; Trento itself was founded by the Celts and later conquered by the Romans. They gave it the name “Tridentum” (“Three Teeth”). Roads were expanded and turned into the central transport axis for conquering the alpine area. Various cultures ruled over the area after the fall of the Western Roman Empire until all secular powers were given to the bishops in 1004 where they would remain for eight centuries.

The Council of Trento (1545 of 1563) laid the foundation for the city’s historic significance and ignited the counter-reformation. Most of Trento was redesigned in Renaissance style during this era, baroque elements followed in later times. The “Reichsdeputationshauptschluss” (“Imperial Recess”) of 1803 formally put an end to the Bishopric and annexed it into the kingdoms of Bavaria, Italy and Austria-Hungary over the following decades. A full upgrade of the fortress facilities in the 1870s was supposed to protect the city from military attacks, which would come during the First World War. Trento and the surrounding region saw brutal combat. The entire Trentino fell to Italy as part of the Treaty of Saint-Germain-en-Laye. Nowadays, the region is among the wealthiest in the entire country.

Cathedral Square

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The first stop of your city tour leads you to the heart of Trento. Cathedral Square is home of the former centre of power of the huge prince-bishopric. Several monumental buildings and an equally spectacular foundation await you on and around the square:

Cathedral San Vigilio: The Council of Trento was held in the Duomo. Important decrees that formed the foundation of the counter-reformation were passed here. There had been an early-Christian basilica here as early as the late 4^th It predominantly used to be an ancient place of ceremonial gatherings. Bishop Federico Vanga had a Romanesque cathedral built starting in 1212. The ostentatious design of the façade with pilasters, towers and blind arcades, imposing windows and statues immediately catches your eye. The baroque canopy above the main altar and the classic Christian frescoes on the north wall of the transept bear witness to the cathedral’s eventful history.
Palazzo Pretorio: The Bishop’s Palace “moved” to Cathedral Square, right next to today’s San Vigilio, in the 11^th Restorations between 1953 and 1964 unearthed the original Romanesque structure. The palace with the impressive belltower now houses the Museo Diocesano Tridentino.
Fountain of Neptune: Positioned almost in the centre of Cathedral Square, this baroque fountain has its origin between 1767 and 1769. Andrea Malfatti’s bronze Neptune statue, however, is a replica. You can find the stone original by Francesco Antonio Giongo in the courtyard of city hall.

Trento’s museums

There’s a surprisingly high number of museums in every corner of Trento covering a wide variety of different eras and topics. Old masters collide with modern art, alpine achievements go hand in hand with aviation. We highly recommend you visit the following five facilities during your next stay.

Museo Diocesano Tridentino: The former’s Bishop’s Palace Palazzo Pretorio now houses this collection of art and culture with works spanning from the 11^th to the 19^th During a museum tour you can see the adjacent cathedral from above and view the remains of Porta Veronensis. Even though the archaeological excavation site of the early-Christian basilica is part of the Museo, it can only be accessed via San Vigilio.
MART: The Museo d’arte moderna e contemporanea di Trento e Rovereto (MART) was founded in 2002 on two different sites. Aside from the main building in Rovereto, approx. half an hour away by car, you can check out riveting modern and contemporary art in Trento.
Museo Nazionale Storico degli Alpini: This museum on the hill Doss Trento acts as some sort of home to the Italian mountain infantry. It was built next to a mausoleum for Trento’s Alpini officers and for the irredentist Cesare Battisti. Gain fascinating insights into the history of various troops specialised in mountain combat.
Gianni Caproni Museum of Aeronautics: Gianni Caproni spearheaded one of the world’s most important aviation companies in the first half of the 20^th The aeronautics engineers started to collect his most important airplane models early on. You get to see important planes from the pioneer area, the two World Wars and the time after both wars.

Other places to see and visit

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If you’re at least a little bit like us, you definitely cannot get enough of Trento. Well, we’ve prepared a little something for you:

Dante Monument: Inspired by the Walther von der Vogelweide statue in Bolzano, Gugliemo Ranzi ensured the support of the authorities for a monument honouring Dante Alighieri in 1889. The bronze statue by Cesare Zocchi depicts the author enthroned above scenes from the Divina Commedia.
Castello del Buonconsiglio: This lowland castle on a ledge in the old centre used to be the bishop’s see until 1796. The listed and protected Castello is one of Trento’s most important buildings acting, among other things, as an exhibition and memorial site. The art history museum Museo Provinciale d’Arte, the Museo Storico and the Pinacoteca art gallery have found a home behind the castle walls as well.
Buco di Vela: This facility to seal off the Valle di Rio Vela was established during the extension of the fortifications. A heavy-traffic road led through the archway of the former roadblock until 2004 imposing increasing damage on the fort. The construction of a road tunnel bypass facilitated the restoration of the original structure which now houses a museum of Austro-Hungarian fortress architecture.

From Cathedral Square to the museums to the impressive fortifications – Trento is always worth a visit. A highly exciting city of arts granting numerous insights into its thrilling history and inviting you to go on a plethora of hikes and mountain tours in close proximity awaits you in a place where bishops used to rule an entire region for 800 years. Enjoy your tour across mountains and valleys!

Bolzano – city of arts with a plethora of castles

Dec 17 2020

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

South Tyrol’s capital is widely regarded as a distinct highlight among winter tourists and spa guests. Several language and culture groups come together in Bolzano, a place with an everything but harmonious history. Bolzano’s unique role as a city of arts is frequently forgotten. Astonishing and important art treasures plus Europe’s highest density of castles amaze in many different ways. And those are just two of many aspects that make Bolzano a popular holiday destination. Join us on a look behind the scenes.

A late bloomer among different culture groups

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Unlike many other Italian cities, Bolzano was mostly meaningless in Roman times and during the Migration Period due to its swamps and frequent flooding, aside from the odd tiny settlement here and there, and a Roman military station. However, numerous castles were built in the Bolzano basin in the Middle Ages. Today’s city was originally conceived as a planned market settlement between 1170 and 1180 established around a market square with alleys lined with arbours. Attested municipal law only came about in 1437.

The former fair city lost more and more significance until the second half of the 19^th century when tourism was discovered and developed into a leading industry. A monument of the famous medieval poet Walther von der Vogelweide from the year 1889 signified the transition between German and Italian language area. Dr. Julius Perathoner’s election to mayor in 1895 kicked off a highly active period that saw the city museum, theatre, bridges, schools, promenades, and tramlines built and/or extended. Numerous industrial plants were established during the Italianisation programme; the fascist regime redesigned the cityscape from 1928 onward. Certain tensions between Bolzano’s different language and culture groups remain to this day, but there’s certainly a much better understanding now in a variety of ways.

Castles and estates

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The Bolzano basin has the highest density of castles in Europe with around 40 fortresses within a small area, built by nobility on predominantly exposed spots from the 12^th century onward. Numerous prestigious castles and estates in and around Bolzano can still be visited. Don’t miss out on the following favourites:

Runkelstein Castle: Experience Bolzano’s history up close on uneven ground. The publicly accessible Runkelstein Castle likely dates back to around 1237. It was destroyed and rebuilt several times in later periods. The main focus is the medieval cycle of frescoes originating between 1388 to 1410. It depicts biblical scenes as well as literary and courtly motifs of its time. The Runkelstein frescoes are one of the most important sources for the history of clothing of the late Middle Ages.
Maretsch Castle: This 13^th century lowland castle rises east of the Talfer Promenade. However, today’s look only developed around 300 years later when a full castle complex extension saw the addition of four round towers and Renaissance frescoes. Maretsch Castle mainly serves as a seminar centre today and can be viewed on enquiry.
Castel Flavon: The Haselburg, whose name comes from the Bolzano district Haslach (Aslago), built this castle in the 13^th Heavily converted in later years as well, a severe fire turned a lot of the facility into ruins during the 18^th and 19^th century. Today’s congress centre with an inn is particularly known for its evocative Renaissance frescoes.
Ansitz Compil: This glorious building is one of many estates in Bolzano known by their German term “Ansitz”. This listed estate was first mentioned in the 13^th century as property of the Reifer von Compil. It got today’s look around 1870 after a British neo-Gothic conversion.

Bolzano’s churches

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Bolzano isn’t just home to countless castles, fortresses and estates, there are also a plethora of churches with amazing architectural variety ranging from the Middle Ages to the 20^th century. We really recommend the following churches with their unique art treasures:

Maria Himmelfahrt: The origins of the cathedral and the bishop’s see date back to a Romanesque parish church that was built in 1180. A late Gothic new building was added around 1300 when Bolzano grew. The Leitacher Törl with its sculptures, the tower and the chapter of the collegiate church followed in later years. Various late Gothic frescoes and the neo-Gothic side altars plus an International Gothic pietà line the cathedral’s inside. The particularly venerated, historic Sacred Heart painting by Johann Josef Karl Henrici is also kept in Maria Himmelfahrt.
Old Parish Church of Gries: The Catholic Our Lady’s Church in the district Gries-Quirein lost its parish church status to the new collegiate church. It is now a listed building due to its precious art treasures. The Romanesque crucifix designed just after 1200 and the incomplete, late Gothic carved altar by Michael Pacher are of special significance.
Chiesa dei Domenicani: This church with its former monastery carries high art-historic significance as well. Its apse is one of the oldest examples of Gothic sacred architecture in Tyrol. Impressive Gothic wall paintings and an astonishing baroque altarpiece by Guercino in the nave lead through numerous different centuries of art history.
Convento dei Francescani: Three large, post-war glass windows rise in the apse. They are the most modern part of this cloister complex with a chapel where a young Francis of Assisi supposedly served at the altar during a mass and rung the bell. A splendid carved altar and significant frescoes in the cloister lead through art and church history spanning 800 years.

Even more buildings and museums

Let’s take one step back before we fully immerse ourselves in the sacred marvels of Bolzano and give you a glimpse of some of the more modern buildings and monuments:

South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology: Ötzi the Iceman “lives” in Bolzano’s Museum Road. The world-famous glacial mummy belongs to the collection of one of Italy’s most important archaeological museums. Gripping insights into the early history of the Southern Alps are mainly dedicated to finds between the Old Stone Age and the Migration Period.
Museion: A peculiar cube (54 m long, 25 m high) rises at the end of a bridge with swinging bends. The museum for modern and contemporary art has been in this highly fascinating building – a tremendous sight in its own right – since 2008.
Monumento alla Vittoria: Fascism pushed forward involuntary Italianisation in South Tyrol, especially in Bolzano. This huge monument was built instead of a memorial for those who had fallen in the First World War. It should come as little surprise that the Victory Monument was a topic of hot debate for many decades. A permanent exhibition of Bolzano’s and South Tyrol’s history during fascism was established in the underground rooms in 2014.
Casa Littoria: Similar to the Victory Monument, the former seat of the Italian Fascist Party was turned into a memorial. Numerous explanatory boards provide information on the historic background, the reliefs, and the names of the engraved, now forbidden fascist organisation. Casa Littoria is currently used as an administrative building.
Messner Mountain Museum Firmian: Six sites in the Italian provinces South Tyrol and Belluno form the mountain museum of the world-renowned extreme climber Reinhold Messner. The museum project Firmian in Bolzano has found a home in the late medieval Sigmundskron Castle. Among the cornerstones of the MGM exhibition is the relationship between alpinism, tourism, man and nature as illustrated through numerous pictures, sculptures and memorabilia.

It is hard not to fall under the spell of Bolzano. Despite its comparatively brief history, this truly is a city of arts. From the high density of castles to the art treasures in the churches to the open handling of the more recent, dark history – Bolzano is always worth the journey.

Pavia – city of arts with unique history

Dec 03 2020

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

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City tourists probably wouldn’t call Pavia their number one address, but history buffs most certainly cannot get enough of it. After all, this is where the Western Roman Empire ended before the town in southwestern Lombardy would eventually become a centre of science and art. Don’t sleep on the architectural diversity of Pavia with plenty of astounding Romanesque and Gothic sights – the perfect backdrop for highly indulging tours between historic walls and charming cafés. Strap in, it’s time to dive deep into Pavia!

Where the Western Roman Empire ended

Ancient scholars offer different theories as to Pavia’s exact origins. Pliny the Elder believed the town was founded by two Ligurian tribes, while Claudius Ptolemy names the Celtic Insubres. It was an important Roman military site, then known as Ticinum, and grew bigger and bigger over time. The Western Roman Empire effectively ended here when the last emperor Romulus Augustulus was dethroned in 476 AD. Pavia would eventually become the Lombard capital after a three-year siege. It took even Charlemagne nine months (between 773 and 774) to capture the town. Hungarian raids and citizen revolts in later centuries were bloodily suppressed.

Pavia mostly had a symbolic meaning during the Holy Roman Emperor before becoming one of the most important Italian towns in later centuries. The Visconti, rulers of Milan, captured Pavia after a long siege in 1359 and turned it into the Northern Italian centre of science and art. The university was opened only two years later. French troops conquered the town for several months during the Italian Wars of the 16^th century. The king’s defeat and capture in the Battle of Pavia in 1525 is one of the key events of the early modern age. Pavia had Spanish, Austrian and Napoleonic rulers in later centuries before eventually being incorporated into the newly founded Kingdom of Italy in 1860.

Romanesque Pavia

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One of the architectural aspects that makes Pavia so exciting is the fairly distinct division of most sights into two different main eras with a few other select highlights attributed to later periods. Our first “stop”, if you will, leads us to the Romanesque with buildings that mainly date back to the Carolingian rule and the Holy Roman Empire.

San Michele Maggiore: A dispute over the Italian crown lead to the destruction of the preceding Lombard church by the flames of the revolting masses in the early 11^th Today’s basilica was initially built around 100 years later before being immediately destroyed by a severe earthquake. San Michele Maggiore was finally completed on 15 April 1155, just in time for the crowning of Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. Lombard and Romanesque architecture come together here. The sandstone basilica is widely regarded as the epitome of regional medieval church architecture.
San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro: There are many parallels between San Pietro and San Michele Maggiore. A church had already existed there previously, it was built after the crown controversy, and the earthquake mentioned above caused severe damages. A glorious basilica with the namesake golden relief on the apse ceiling is hidden behind the fairly plain brickwork façade. San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro is probably best known for the tombs of the philosopher Boethius, of Saint Augustine, and of the Lombard king Liutprand.
San Teodoro: The third Romanesque basilica also has Lombard roots. Built in honour of the eponymous patron saint of Pavia, it combines the era’s simplicity with spectacular frescoes depicting the town from bird’s eye view.
The towers: There were around 50 tower houses in 12^th century Pavia, all built by influential families for defensive and residential purposes. Three “survived” as free-standing towers while the remnants of others were incorporated into houses. The astounding Torre Civica, former site of the cathedral bells, sadly collapsed in 1989.

Gothic Pavia

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Time to jump to the next era. The townscape changed after the Visconti from Milan rose to power in Pavia. Numerous Gothic buildings were constructed. They remain impressive to this very day:

Certosa di Pavia: Your first point of interest, so to say, should be Pavia’s most renowned building. Gian Galeazzo Visconti, the first Duke of Milan, had a monastery built in his castle’s park and saw to it that he would be buried there later. The enormous monastic complex of the Certosa is Gothic at its core yet also features Renaissance and baroque elements. You can view the Carthusian charterhouse every day except on Mondays and experience the colourful paintings as well as the numerous tombs.
Santa Maria del Carmine: This epitome of Lombard Gothic architecture even utilises a touch of the Romanesque for its slender façade. Six pilasters with spires, several portals and an enormous rose window adorn this brickwork building.
Castello Visconteo: Gian Galeazzo’s father Galeazzo II had a castle built for himself that emphasised residential qualities over defensive use. It currently serves as the home of several civic museums including a huge art gallery plus Risorgimento and archaeological museums.
San Francesco d’Assisi: Many of Pavia’s Romanesque churches are of Lombard origin. However, in a fairly neat twist, this is a Romanesque building that was adapted for Gothic use. The Franciscan church with its impressive façade might remind you a little bit of Santa Maria del Carmine.
Ponte Coperto: From an adaptation to a reconstruction – the 14^th century saw the erection of the Gothic bridge connecting the historic centre with the district Borgo Ticino. Having been destroyed during the Second World War, it was rebuilt a few metres to the east.

Even more things to see in Pavia

Well, is that enough Pavia for you? No? Awesome, because we have a few more neat suggestions for your next visit in store:

Duomo di Pavia: The predecessors might be Romanesque, its origins are Gothic, but the cathedral can look back on a rather eventful construction history exceeding 400 years. As such, you get to expect a wide stylistic plurality. Built on the plan of a Greek Cross, you cannot help but marvel at the astounding cupola. It is 97 metres high, weights approx. 20,000 tons and has 34 windows. The only Italian churches with bigger cupolas are St. Peter’s Cathedral in Rome and Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence.
University: Despite having been founded in 1361 making it one of the oldest in all of Europe, the main building complex of the University of Pavia was only added and adapted much later during several construction periods. Twelve courts with façades ranging from baroque to neoclassic were built between 1534 and 1850. The university is both a centre of knowledge and a genuinely special sight with ancient burial monuments of scholars, terracotta decorations and Renaissance elements.
Santa Maria di Canepanova: You will hardly be surprised to learn that Pavia has a Renaissance church as well. Santa Maria di Canepanova was designed by Giovanni Antonio Amadeo. His credits include Milan Cathedral. He adapted the ad quadratum style of Bergamo’s Cappella Colleoni for this building.

As you can see, there’s more to Pavia than “just” its historic significance. You get to experience many a hidden treasure, as you do in a genuine city of arts. Retrace the steps of renowned and feared rulers, and let the seamless transition from Romanesque to Gothic wash over you. Pavia is always worth the trip.

Cremona – city of arts with great musical tradition

Nov 26 2020

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

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Situated on the left bank of the Po river near the border to Emilia Romagna, there’s a genuine Lombard insiders’ tip waiting to be discovered by you. To be fair, Cremona isn’t what you’d necessarily call a prime holiday destination. The charming city in the south of the region with just over 72,000 inhabitants is a clear case of small but beautiful. Did you know, for example, that Cremona can look back on a rich history of violin craftmanship that is part of the UNESCO’s intangible cultural heritage? Or that it is home to one of the tallest brickwork bell towers in Europe? Well then, time to check out this lovely city.

A historical rollercoaster of emotions and rulers

Like Piacenza, Cremona was founded in 218 BC as a Roman military outpost for protection against Gallic tribes. New settlers were sent to the colony a few years later allowing it to blossom and eventually gain municipium rights. Troops of future emperor Vespasian destroyed Cremona in 69 AD after the Second Battle of Bedriacum – one of the reasons why you will find hardly any ancient traces. Despite Vespasian ordering immediate rebuilding, its former wealth was gone. The Lombards, too, would destroy and rebuild Cremona several centuries later.

Things became fairly quiet for a long time after. Cremona changed sides several times during the 11^th and 12^th century, supported Barbarossa and still later joined the Lombard League. Being faithful to the empire, it supported the Ghibellines during the Battle of Parma – some of Cremona’s most beautiful buildings date back to this era – until the Guelphs, former enemies, took over. You will hardly be surprised that this period resulted in several rebellions and loss of many rights. Rulers would then change frequently until Cremona became part of the House of Habsburg. It was heavily contested during the War of the Spanish Succession in 1702 before returning to the Austrian Habsburgs and blossoming. That’s where Cremona remained – not counting a Napoleonic intermezzo – until the defeat in the Austro-Sardinian War around 1860. The city became part of the newly founded Kingdom of Italy.

The Cathedral of Cremona

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Many of Cremona’s most beautiful buildings date back to the Middle Ages, and here’s an excellent example. The city’s cathedral, Duomo di Cremona or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, joins the Baptistery and the bell tower Torrazzo to form Cremona’s architectural centrepiece. While the foundation was laid as early as 1107, the cathedral wasn’t consecrated until 1190 due to a devastating earthquake. The campanile, the transept, the façade and the narthex, which now dominates the piazza, were added in later times. Therefore, the cathedral only gained its modern look in the 15^th century.

An impressive marble façade with rich decoration rises around the elaborately designed Romanesque porch. A massive rose window and four Romanesque ambulatories add to this composition. The upper part, however, features distinct early Renaissance characteristics. By contrast, the side façades of transept seem fairly plain – something you most certainly cannot say about the cathedral interior with its plethora of awe-inspiring ornamentations and embellishments. The large altar cross made of gilded silver will most definitely catch your eye. It was made of more than 1,000 different parts with 160 statues. Paintings and frescoes by Il Pordenone, Boccaccino and Amadeo cap off the monumental overall impression.

Two other, similarly impressive buildings are also part of this architectural ensemble:

Baptistery: Annexed to the cathedral, the octagonal Battistero di Cremona rises to the left. It is a magnificent piece where Romanesque and Lombard-Gothic architecture collide – the latter being particularly visible in the bare brickwork walls – even though the marble elements can be attributed to later restorations. Another large altar cross and several statues adorn the interior.
Torrazzo: Finished in 1309, the campanile is the third-tallest brickwork bell tower in Europe behind Landshut and Bruges. Being 112.7 m in height, it is also the tallest still standing building exceeding 100 m of its kind. Furthermore, the Torrazzo is home to the largest astronomical clock in the world. Its zodiac constellations were repainted and altered multiple times over the course of history.

Cultural and musical Cremona

Time for an architectural break! The city of arts Cremona is intrinsically tied to its cultural and musical heritage. Violin players gush about it, if just mention the name. While the cathedral had been an important regional musical centre during the late Middle Ages, Cremona would blossom as a centre of musical instrument craftsmanship during the 16^th century. Some of the world’s most renowned violin crafting families come and/or operated from Cremona. The Amati and Rugeri families were the pioneers, the Guarneri and Bergonzi took over later. And, of course, there’s Antonio Stradivari, probably the most famous son of the city. His instruments now sell for millions. Even today there are still more than 140 craftsmen in and around Cremona.

The traditional violin craftmanship in Cremona was granted intangible cultural heritage status by the UNESCO in 2012. The Museo del violino opened only one year later. This violin museum spread across ten rooms in the Palazzo dell’Arte is entirely dedicated to the multifaceted history of the instrument ranging from its origins to the master craftsmen to modern use. Performances with old and new instruments from Cremona regularly take place in the auditorium.

Don’t miss out on these gems!

We end our highly fascinating musical intermezzo as Cremona has a few more gems to offer beyond violin craftsmanship and the cathedral complex. Here are some of our favourites:

Museo Civico Ala Ponzone: There many ways this city of arts expresses, well, art. You can find some of Cremona’s most beautiful pieces exhibited in this museum. Most of the original collection was donated by Giuseppe Sigismondo Ala Ponzone in 1842 including works by Arcimboldi and Caravaggio. Find another highlight in the Sala del Platina. The Renaissance wooden sacristy cabinet Armadio del Platina used to be in the Cathedral of Cremona.
San Sigismondo: This complex of churches is located slightly outside the city centre. San Sigismondo was originally a monastery built in 1463 to honour the new connection of the previously rival Sforza and Visconti families. Don’t sleep on the masterful frescoes by Bernardino Gatti in the cupola!
San Marcellino e Pietro: While Cremona’s architectural peak might have been during the (late) Middle Ages, you will come across many a highlight of later eras. One of those is this baroque church commissioned in 1602. Don’t be fooled by the incomplete façade as the characteristically opulent baroque interior brings impressive paintings, altarpieces and stucco adornment to the table.

Cremona is something that can easily be considered an insiders’ tip, at least outside the music world. The impressive cathedral ensemble with the Baptistery and the Torrazzo alone will wow you, while the rich violin craftsmanship history should even impress guests with a lack of classical music interest. Enjoy this slightly different Lombard city of arts!

City of arts Milan – culture meets industrialisation

Nov 12 2020

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

City of fashion, of industry and media – Milan has a special role in Italy and beyond. The country’s second-largest city and capital of Lombardy with approx. 1.4 million inhabitants is the hub of the north, situated ideally, and a point of attraction for people from across the globe. Milan or Milano, to use its Italian name, derives from the Latin word “Mediolanum”, meaning “in the middle of the plain”. Its suburbs extend to other prominent city of arts, such as Como and Bergamo, with the entire greater area emitting a truly special atmosphere. We have picked a few favourites you absolutely must check out during your next visit of the city of arts that is Milan.

From Celtic settlement to industrialised metropolis

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Sure, we always say something along those lines, but Milan’s history really is exquisitely exciting. First settlement of the area by the Insubres dates to around 400 BC. The Romans conquered this Celtic settlement just under 200 years later and renamed it Mediolanum – you might have heard that word before. However, it would take a very long time until today’s Milan gained any significance. West Roman emperors resided here in the 4^th century AD before the imperial court was moved to Ravenna. There are hardly any traces of ancient Roman architecture left – Colonne di San Lorenzo being a noteworthy exception – as the Ostrogoths completely destroyed Milan 539. The city met a similar fate over 600 years later at the hands of Barbarossa. However, its allied cities Mantua, Brescia, Verona and Bergamo started the reconstruction process only five years later.

Said reconstruction finally brought the desired boom. Milan assumed the leading role in the Lombard League from 1167 onward and became a signoria after gaining its independence. After having been conquered by the House of Sforza in 1450, Milan was converted into an astonishing Renaissance gem only to be hotly contested soon after. All of Northern Italy fell to the Habsburg in 1525, was given to the Spanish line soon after and only returned to the Austrian side in the early 18^th century. Napoleon would later get his piece of Milan before it was passed to Austria – again – and eventually incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy. Immigrants from other parts of the country caused Milan to grow tremendously during the industrialisation with another boom period following the end of the Second World War. Even though the number of inhabitants sunk due to migration to the great metropolitan area, Milan remains a giant.

Milan, city of churches

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Barbarossa only spared a few churches when he conquered and completely destroyed the city 1162. That is certainly part of why there is such a plethora of sacral buildings in Milan. Here are some of our favourites:

Cathedral: The magnificent façade of the cathedral was only completely in Napoleon times – quite astounding considering that construction of this monumental building began more than 400 years earlier. The Duomo di Milano is an absolute must-visit with its stunning details, grand dimensions, and the precious cathedral treasury.
Santa Maria presso San Satiro: This sacral complex grants you insights into the city’s architectural history of churches. The small central-plan building dates to the 9^th century and retained its original form at the core. The Church of Our Lady from the Renaissance features a rather exciting layout and grand trompe-l’œil in the choir. A grand example of major Renaissance central-plan buildings is the sacristy.
San Lorenzo Maggiore: Despite having been extensively redesigned and restored from the 12^th century onward due to fires and collapses, this basilica still carries its original 4^th century tetraconch layout – an impressive central-plan building with four apses and four corner towers.
Sant’Ambrogio: This church, named after its constructor, St. Ambrose, dates to pre-Christian times as well. It was extended from the 8^th century onward to meet the requirements of the newly founded Benedictine abbey. Even though coating covers the ancient pillars, the ostentatious endowment and the shape carry the flair of said origins.
San Maurizio: Also known as the “Sistine Chapel of Milan”, San Maurizio was originally built as a minster in the 16^th The abbey does not exist anymore, but the grand paintings by important Lombard painters most certainly do. Do not miss out on this artful highlight!
Santa Maria delle Grazie: You might already be familiar with this UNESCO World Heritage Site. While Leonardo da Vinci’s “The Last Supper” might be the main attraction, you certainly should not sleep on the stylistic plurality with Gothic and Renaissance elements.

Palaces, galleries and culture

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We put sacred Milan on hold for now on focus on other buildings mostly built during a similar period, yet of a more secular nature. They are places where art and culture, splendour and expediency meet.

Palazzo della Ragione: The horseman relief on the façade of the palace, often simply referred to as “Broletto”, depicts Oldrado da Tresseno who used to be podestà of Milan and initiated construction of this building. It used to be the site of markets, councils and court trials. Numerous frescoes await you on the inside.
Castello Sforzesco: Head to the northwest of the old city for a genuine Renaissance gem. Francesco I of the House of Sforza had this fort built on the site of a destroyed Visconti castle. Situated ideally for defending against attacks from the outside and revolts from inside the walls, its massive walls now house numerous museums.
Biblioteca Ambrosiana: Together with the art gallery and the art academy, this counter-reformation era library became a major cultural and scientific hub. Among the vast collection are fragments of the 5^th century Ambrosian Iliad and a mathematical manuscript with drawings by Leonardo da Vinci.
Scala: Those who have sung in Milan’s Scala have truly made it. Teatro alla Scala is one of the most famous operas in the world. It saw premieres of major pieces by Verdi, Rossini, Salieri and Puccini. The Scala now seats 2,030 spectators.
Palazzo Reale: The Royal Palace might be an older building, but its contemporary look was only established during the reign of Empress Maria Theresia. Damaged, destroyed and restored several times, the palazzo reinvented itself in recent times to become a cultural hub.

New(er) Milan

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Milan never rests. The city developed rapidly after the Italian unification and the industrialisation. You can see just that when checking out the following highlights.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II: Named after and opened by the unifier and King of Italy, this is not actually an art gallery, but the oldest still active shopping mall of the country. Mostly high-priced brand stores have found prestigious homes under the monumental glass roof.
Cimitero Monumentale: A cemetery as a sight? This Romanesque Revival site fascinates in a plethora of manners. Many famous Italians, such as the poet Manzoni, the race car driver dynasty Ascari, and the Campari family, have found their final resting place here.
Milano Centrale railway station: The industrialisation required a fully developed, expanded transportation network. Stazione di Milano was inspired by Washington D.C.’s Union Station. Opened in 1931, it now sees around 120 million passengers per year. A memorial on Binario 21 commemorates the horrors of the Holocaust.
Pirelli Tower: Tremendous skyscrapers were one of the results of Milan’s resumed growth after the Second World War. Pirelli Tower was the city’s tallest building for a long time. The rather unique shape, the spectacular curtain wall and the rubbery floor covering create a fascinating architectural experience.
Velasca Tower: Named after a 17^th century Spanish governor of the city, this skyscraper near Milan Cathedral was built around the same time as the Pirelli Tower. It is renowned for its unusual mushroom shape. The “mushroom” itself is reserved for apartments while the floors below house stores and offices.

We could go on like this forever because Milan never sleeps. One of the current construction projects is the old exhibition centre, soon to be the home of Italy’s tallest building. As such, you will always be able to experience new things during every visit while also discovering many hidden old treasures. We recommend setting aside several days for a trip to Milan – or a full week to explore the wider metropolitan area and the neighbouring cities of arts. You will not regret it.

Brescia – Roman-Lombard city of arts

Oct 29 2020

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

Even though Brescia is the second-largest city of Lombardy with its almost 200,000 inhabitants, it likely won’t be your prime holiday destination. There certainly are better known places in this region letting the heart one of the country’s largest industrial regions fall by the wayside. However, that’s more than unfair to Brescia as the capital of the eponymous province can look back on a long and eventful history that yielded astonishing sights and excavation sites. Your wanderings of this insiders’ tip will even introduce you to part of an impressive UNESCO World Heritage piece.

How Brescia became Brescia

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Here’s a shocker: we kick things off by looking at the history of this city of arts, and it is quite something. The name Brescia derives from Brixia, the name of this settlement given by the Gallic Cenomani. They surrendered to the Roman Empire in 225 BC who eventually declared the region a civil colony. Various tribes occupied Brescia during the Migration Period before the Lombards eventually ensured quieter times. The city rose to new heights and even yielded two kings before Charlemagne ended the Lombard rule. Over the course of the following centuries the monastery San Salvatore, founded by Queen Ansa, was the city’s centre.

Brescia’s more recent history, however, wasn’t quite as spectacular. A communal revolt resulted in a rather brutal dispute between the citizens and the bishop in 1138. The city would later become very active in the Lombard League. Among the rulers in the following centuries were the Scaliger, the Visconti of Milan, and the Republic of Venice. Brescia even was one of the wealthiest cities of Lombardy during the early 16^th century. The Brescia Explosion of 1769 killed thousands of people and devastated the city when the Bastion of San Nazaro storing 90 tons of gunpowder was struck by lightning. Eventually, the city fell under Austrian rule. Not even a revolt could free Brescia, though it remained active during the Risorgimento earning it the nickname “Leonessa d’Italia” (“Italian Lioness”). Italian troops eventually conquered the city and Brescia was included in the newly founded Kingdom of Italy.

Traces of Ancient Rome and the Lombards

The early years of Brescia during Roman and Lombard rule are something that (should) make the second-largest city in Lombardy a must-see destination for people around the world. Two sites have been part of the UNESCO World Heritage “Places of Power of the Lombards in Italy” since 2011:

San Salvatore: Queen Ansa, wife of the Lombard king Desiderius, founded the monastery in 753. Her daughter Anselperga later became abbess. The complex, also known as Santa Giulia, is now home of a huge museum with over 11,000 finds and works of arts. You will most certainly be wowed and impressed by the architectural mix of different Roman, pre-Romanesque, Romanesque and Renaissance elements. Don’t forget to take a walk through the old, restored basilica!
Capitolium: Furthermore, you will find the best-preserved Roman buildings in all of Northern Italy. Among them is the Capitolium of Brixia, the old main temple. The buried site was rediscovered during excavations in 1823, and fully unearthed and restored over the years. It is now part of a vast archaeological park that includes the ruins of an old theatre and a sanctuary from the 1^st century BC.

Cathedral Square and Piazza della Loggia

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But that’s enough for the ancient peak of Brescia. We move on to two of the most important squares of the modern city. Cathedral Square is our first stop. It used to be the site of three monumental Romanesque buildings until the summer cathedral was demolished in the 17^th century and replaced by the following new building:

Duomo Nuovo: The so-called New Cathedral was built over the space of over 200 years. Several young regional architects and artists left their mark on and inside it. Many a fresco is hidden behind the façade made of the bright limestone Botticino.
Duomo Vecchio: Right next door you find the Old Cathedral or winter cathedral. This spectacular, circular Romanesque church was built in the 11^th Inside you find several Gothic bishop tombs and other masterworks.
Broletto: Situated on the west side of the square, this medieval city hall originated in the 12^th and 13^th Broletto is very characteristic of its time with the tall tower and the Loggia delle Grida. Three of the encompassing facades in the courtyard date back to the Middle Ages.

We leave the predominantly medieval charm behind and turn to Brescia’s cradle of the Renaissance. Piazza della Loggia is the epitome of a Renaissance square and remains likely the city’s most beautiful square even nearly 600 years after it was established. Here you find Palazzo della Loggia, currently used as city hall, with its stunning Vanvitelli rooms and two 15^th to 16^th century Christian lending houses, so-called Monti di Pietà. The facades are embedded with ancient Roman tombstones. The imposing Torre dell’Orologio rises tall at the centre of the square’s east side. The original 16^th century clockwork still works.

Other highlights in Brescia

As stunning and as impressive as these two squares might be, we now move on to finally introduce to even more neat spots and sights in Brescia you most definitely shouldn’t miss out on:

Santa Maria della Carità: This church is probably the most beautiful of all baroque buildings in Brescia. Behind the traditional façade you discover an octagonal layout with a spectacular, ostentatious main altar. The marble floor is a genuine eye-catcher. You will certainly be wowed by the breathtaking frescos and stuccos, and the clever perspective work of the cupola.
Santa Maria dei Miracoli: There were rumours of the miracle powers of a fresco of the Madonna and Child in front of a house in San Nazario when Brescia was hit by the plague between 1480 and 1484. The Catholic Church bought that very house and built the church of miracles. Artful marble reliefs adorn the façade. The monumental porch with its four pillars leads you inside the church with many an impressive painting.
Pinacoteca Tosi Martinengo: While there many art museums in the city, none match this institution. Opened in 1851 in Palazzo Tosio, this gallery’s collection includes more than 800 paintings currently displayed in 21 different galleries. Among them are works by Raphael, Vincenzo Foppa and Lorenzo Lotto.
Torre della Pallata: Built in 1254, this tower of a bastion that used to be part of the medieval city walls certainly is something special. Merlons, a clock and a small tower were added to Torre della Pallata over the years. There’s even a Mannerist fountain on its west side.

Brescia is only non-descript to those that have never really dealt with this fascinating city of arts. The hidden gem of Lombardy is home to a particularly exciting World Heritage Site and to architectural highlights ranging from ancient Rome to Romanesque art of the baroque. Still it maintains a harmonious, charming and inviting overall flair. Don’t forget to spend a few days in Brescia during your next trip to Northern Italy!

Bergamo – hilly city of arts with cable cars

Oct 15 2020

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

©Bigstock.com/Patryk Kosmider

Bergamo is situated at the segue between the last foothills of the Alps and the fertile Po Valley, right in the heart of Lombardy. This stunning city with around 120,000 inhabitants can look back on a unique, highly eventful history that most definitely left its mark on the contemporary structure. The old upper city located on a hill used to be one of the centrepieces of the Republic of Venice and is surrounded by a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the distinctly more modern lower city situated around it. Both city centres are connected by cable cars that transport locals and tourists back and forth. Jump in and let our tour begin!

Historic foray through Bergamo

Bergamo’s ideal location on a hill attracted first settlers very early. The Celtic tribe of Cenomani were here first with the Romans only conquering the region in 196 BC and calling it Bergomum. Around 10,000 citizens used to live in the municipium at its peak. Like many other Northern Italian cites, it was pillaged right before the fall of the Western Roman Empire. After a long period of Carolingian rule Bergamo would become an independent commune – an era mostly dominated by conflicts with Brescia and by the Lombard League.

Having been ruled by Bohemia, Milan and the House of Malatesta at different periods of time, Bergamo would eventually fall to the Republic of Venice after the Battle of Maclodio. Several French and Spanish conquests – Venice always managed to quickly regain the city – led to a decisive extension of the defensive fortifications. The massive city walls around the old town with its originally 14 bastions and four heavily guarded gates were declared UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2017. Bergamo was conquered by Napoleon – like many other Northern Italian cities – was incorporated into the Kingdom of Lombardy-Venetia in 1815 and became an important hub of the Risorgimento. The city provided the largest share of the so-called Garibaldini during the Expedition of the Thousand and would eventually become part of the new Italy.

The cable cars

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Numerous bus lines aside, the two cable cars are particularly important for Bergamo’s public transport. The first ideas were developed during the second half of the 19^th century when the upper city on the hills faced increasing isolation and commercial crisis. Today two funiculars operate in Bergamo:

Città Alta: The upper city’s crisis escalated when the city council moved to the lower city. A funicular from the northern edge of the lower city (Viale Vittorio Emanuele) to the northern edge of the upper city (Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe) turned out to be the solution. The cabins eventually gave way for inclined lifts that overcome falls of up to 52%. The funicular to Città Alta remains a popular means of transport among locals and guests.
San Vigilio: This cable car inside the north-western upper city to the eponymous hill offers an amazing view across Bergamo and provides access to most of the Venetian defensive fortifications. Nowadays, mostly tourists travel to the castle at an altitude of 496 m.

Piazza Vecchia and Piazza del Duomo

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Most of Bergamo’s major sights are in the old upper city, grouped around the two central squares: Piazza Vecchia and Piazza del Duomo. Here are some of the must-sees you get to experience at and around these hotspots:

Palazzo della Ragione: The brick-built façade of the town hall that looks a bit like an ancient Roman basilica dominates Piazza Vecchia. Several fires destroyed most of Palazzo della Ragione leading to its eventual restauration in the 16^th century utilising late Gothic elements. The large market hall is currently used as a fresco museum.
Campanone: One of the city’s landmarks is right next to the palazzo. You can see the Campanone or Torre civica from afar. It is 52.76 m high and towers over most of Bergamo. 230 steps or, if you prefer a more comfortable solution, a lift lead to the top.
Cathedral: Bergamo’s cathedral is on Piazza del Duomo. Excavations suggest that the first churches here were built in the 5^th The current building was started in the mid-15^th century and only finished in 1693 after a break of almost two centuries. The white-marble façade almost glows hiding a monumental structure with rich adornment behind it. An archaeological area below the portico unearths the basilica’s exciting history from early Christian times to now.
Santa Maria Maggiore: Originally a Romanesque concept that remained incomplete, works on the basilica Santa Maria Maggiore commenced in 1137. A transept façade with porch was added in 1530 before everything was eventually revamped in baroque style. The fascinating figurines on the outer walls create an equally fascinating contrast to the frescos and tapestries on the inside. The basilica is the final resting place of the composers Gaetano Donizetti and Johann Simon Mayr.
Cappella Colleoni: This sepulchral church commissioned by Bartolomeo Colleoni in 1471 is probably the most striking building on Piazza del Duomo. It houses the tomb of the mercenary leader and that of his daughter Medea who died aged only twelve. This masterpiece of Renaissance architecture and decorative arts impresses both as a whole and in its details. The façade alone with its pillars, the rose window, tympanum and aedicula will wow you, and don’t even get us started on the unbelievably grand interior.

Additional highlights in Bergamo

There are many more places and squares beyond the historic old city you absolutely must visit. We recommend the following sights in the upper city and in the lower city:

Accademia Carrara: The art academy plus art museum in the lower city started out in the late 18^th century when art patron Giacomo Carrara left an extensive collection to the city of Bergamo. During your visit you get to see works by Botticelli, Raffael, Pisanello and Raffael plus numerous prints and drawings, sculptures, porcelains, furniture, bronzes, and a collection of medals.
GAMeC: The Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, GAMeC, has been in the building opposite the neo-classical Accademia since 1991. This gallery for modern and contemporary art presents its exhibits in ten rooms spread across three floors.
Orto Botanico: A long walk onto Colle Aperto leads to the city’s botanical gardens, open daily in the warm season. Established in 1972 and named after the physician and botanist Lorenzo Rota, it is home to a plethora of alpine and exotic plants.
Teatro Donizetti: A fire – presumably arson – destroyed Bergamo’s opera in 1797, only a few years after it had been opened. A new building was needed. Today’s Teatro Donizetti – renamed in honour of the 100^th birthday of composer Gaetano Donizetti in 1897 – truly is something special with its horseshoe shape. You can find a Donizetti monument in the adjacent park.
San Michele al Pozzo Bianco: This final treat awaits you in the eastern upper city. The roots of this small church date back to the 8^th century, the current building was constructed in the 14^th century, and the façade is about 100 years old. San Michele al Pozzo Bianco is particularly known for its impressive frescos inside the Marian chapel, at the altar and in the crypt.

From upper city to lower city, from magnificent buildings to contemporary art – Bergamo impresses with astounding variety within and around the Venetian city walls that, being a World Heritage Site, would be reason alone to visit this gem in the heart of Lombardy. Don’t miss out on this charming cultural and architectural highlight!

Como – city of arts with many different ruler

Sep 17 2020

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

Como, capital of the eponymous province in Lombardy, is situated at the southwest shore of Lake Como. This tourist town in close proximity to the Swiss border and only 45 km from Milan is genuinely stunning. It goes without saying that the lake alone is worth the visit for swimming and lots of different water sports. However, there’s many a lesser known highlight hidden behind the walls of the city of arts that is Como. Let’s learn more about them together.

Como then and now

It would appear that the lake and its surrounding hills have always been very popular as some finds hint at settlements as early as the 10^th century BC which would thrive until a devastating Celtic raid. It is believed that Comum, to use the Roman name, was actually founded by the Gaul. The eventual Roman colony was heavily expanded and fortified under Gnaeus Pompeius Strabo and Caesar for protection against Rhaetian attacks. The lake of the once wealthy place with a flourishing iron industry used to be home to numerous villas.

Early Germanic invasions heavily affected Como with people only returning in Lombard times. A latent conflict with the archbishops o Milan resulted in a gruelling cycle of war, occupation, relief and devastation. Frequently changing rulers during the Middle Ages eventually brought Como back under Milanese rule in 1450 before the town – like the rest of Lombardy – became Spanish dominion. Later centuries saw Como fall to Austria, the Cisalpine Republic, Napoleon’s Italian kingdom, and back to Austria before Giuseppe Garibaldi freed the town in 1859 for it to become part of the new Kingdom of Italy.

Como Cathedral

This extensively short overview – we stan oxymorons! – shows that Como’s history is everything but linear. Changing rulers and dynasties left a highly multifaceted cityscape dominated by the cathedral. Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, to use its full name, is in the heart of the historic centre and was the final Gothic cathedral to be built in all of Lombardy. There actually had already been a cathedral – Santa Maria Maggiore near the lake was built in the 9^th century – but the planned restoration that started in the late 14^th century eventually turned into a completely new building.

You probably won’t be surprised to hear that things didn’t quite go as planned leading to several construction phases. The main apse, the sacristies and the wings were done by 1519, the south and the north apse only followed about a century later and the cupola wouldn’t be completed until the mid-18^th century. Even though the construction phases extended into and far beyond the Renaissance, there’s very little to be seen of these different architectural and artistic eras. Como Cathedral is decorated with numerous grand works of arts including statues of Pliny the Elder and Pliny the Younger, both natives of Como, and astounding altarpieces. The cathedral treasury contains the reliquary shrine Urna Volpi with hairs of the Virgin Mary and a hairpin of Mary Magdalene.

Churches and castles in Como

Numerous medieval and Romanesque churches, grand palaces and castles inside and around the ancient city walls that were fortified and rebuilt in the Middle Ages give you an idea of the architectural diversity of Como. Time for a brief look at a few select religious and profane building:

San Fedele: This late 12^th century church near the cathedral might be a bit hard to find. San Fedele is nestled between residential buildings both left and right. In addition, the façade was reconstructed in 1914 for harmonious incorporation into the overall cityscape. What is interesting is the rather unusual three-conch chancel. It was likely modelled after a church in Cologne and has ever since been an object of research of possible medieval relationships between Como and the Rhine city.
Sant’Abbondio: Like San Fedele, Sant’Abbondio is older than the cathedral. The nave was likely built during the second half of the 11^th century when members of the Ottonian dynasty brought German Romanesque architecture to Como. The ornamentation and the towers were evidently modelled after various Northern European structures, the cylindrical columns likely are of French origin, and the 14^th century frescoes clearly work with stylistics from Umbria and Tuscany.
Castello Baradello: How about a neat little trip to the hill towering above the town? Castello Baradello is located where the original Roman settlement was established. It can look back at a long and astounding history, at one time restored and given to the people of Como by Barbarossa. Emperor Charles V had everything but the tower dismantled in the 16^th century in order to prevent the castle from falling in hands of French troops. The extensive restoration only took place in 1971. Over all these years the tower with Byzantine walls, likely dating back to the 6^th or 7^th century, survived.

Other sights you have to check out

Would you like a bit more of Como? Well, duh, it’s not like we can get enough of this riveting city of arts either. Here are some additional favourites:

Casa del Fascio: Como is not only home of fascinating witnesses of former rulers. Casa del Fascio is widely regarded as a landmark of modern Italian architecture, the so-called Razionalismo. The former seat of the local section of Mussolini’s Fascist party now houses the Guardia di Finanza and its museum.
Villa Olmo: You are interested in neoclassical architecture? Como has got you covered as well! Marquis Innocenzo Odescalchi ordered the construction of Villa Olmo in the late 18^th Later owners would make extensive alterations – the foyer was turned into a large hall, the garden into an English park – but the original spirit remained.
Tempio Voltiano: Alessandro Volta invented the first electrical battery in 1800. This neoclassical museum was built in on the 100^th anniversary of the scientist’s passing and shows various scientific tools, early voltaic piles, and personal belongings from Volta’s life.
Funicular: Brunate is situated on a hill above Como. The area was populated as far back as the 4^th century BC and turned into a popular tourist destination after the Second World War. As such, the funicular mono-railway that connects Como and Brunate evolved from being the main mode of transportation for locals into a popular tourist attraction.
Broletto: And finally, we take a trip back into the Middle Ages. The most important medieval secular building of city is situated just northwest of the cathedral façade, a clear sign of the era’s close connection between religious and secular power. Mason pillar arcades lead into the building adorned with numerous figurines, balustrades and loggias.

While Como might be one of the lesser known cities of arts, it is still worth a visit, not just because of Lake Como. You will discover many a hidden gem from the town’s ancient roots to the very distinct medieval heritage to the eventful later periods and the modern era. Oh, by the way, don’t forget to jump into the lake in summer!

Genoa – from naval power to magical city of arts

Sep 03 2020

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

Genoa used to be a naval trade power and the “gateway to the vast world”, an imposing republic and a colonial power. Christopher Columbus and Niccolò Paganini were born here, the city’s university is around 550 years old looking back on an illustrious history. However, we rarely talk about Genoa as a city of arts, about the fascinating palaces and magnificent structures along the ostentatious UNESCO World Heritage roads Le Strade Nuove, about the countless churches and art galleries. Time to change that – join us on a tour of Genoa, the city of arts on the coast of the Ligurian Sea!

The legendary Republic of Genoa

Come on now, you didn’t seriously think we’d ignore Genoa’s rich history, eh? It. Is. Genoa. Well then, let’s get this show on the road. The name likely derives from “genu”, the Latin word for “knee”, somewhat based on the shape of the coastline. Experts believe that the natural harbour was already used as just that in pre-Christian times. Finds hint at Greek settlements during the 4^th century BC. The Romans started to turn the city into their headquarters for battling the Ligurians in 216 BC. Reports of classical writers, however, are rare, and we thus know little about the ancient city. In stark contrast, the ever-changing rulers after the fall of the Western Roman Empire sound familiar. Distinct seaworthiness helped the Genovese along to quickly achieve a civic constitution, to see the fast rise of its navy, and to turn into a medieval colonial power.

Inner conflicts slowed down Genoa’s rise to naval trade power – a role that was gladly taken on eventually. The republic turned into a trade hub, several colonies were established. Trading in oil, wine, leather, soap, grain, silk, but also in slaves flourished. Andrea Doria’s reformation of the republic tried to battle growing Spanish and French influence, but even more domestic discord resulted in the gradual loss of the colonies. Napoleon occupied Genoa in 1796 and founded the Ligurian Republic which, in turn, was eventually annexed by France. However, the republican spirit would not die, and the region later became part of Italy. Remaining an important seaport, Genoa played a decisive role in the Italian economic miracle after World War II. It remains an important worldwide player in trade thanks to its hinterland with Milan, Turin, and connections to Switzerland.

Genoa’s palaces and the World Heritage Site

Right then, let’s finally crack on with the city of arts itself. We don’t want to spend too much time with Le Strade Nuove and the Palazzi dei Rolli as we’ve already taken a fairly close and comprehensive look at these 163 palaces – predominantly built in the 16^th and 17^th century by rich patrician families during the peak of Genovese trade power – as part of our article on the eponymous UNESCO World Heritage Site. Only 42 of the 163 palaces gained World Heritage status… and there are even more palaces in Genoa.

One you must not miss is Palazzo Reale. Sure, we already talked about it in our very UNESCO piece, but the palace is simply too beautiful and too important to be somewhat ignored. Built for members of the patrician family Balbi between 1618 and 1620, the palazzo was extended, reconfigured and amended over the course of the following decades. The building is mostly known for its monumental façade and the almost magical garden. Palazzo Reale currently is home to an art gallery with over 200 paintings by Genovese and other Italian and international masters. It also features impressive frescoes and rather masterful furniture made between the 17^th and the 20^th century.

Genoa’s churches and cemeteries

There’s even more to the city of arts than the impressive palaces of pomp and grandeur. You will find countless religious buildings and monumental cemeteries throughout Genoa. We have picked some of our favourites for you:

San Lorenzo Cathedral: Genoa’s cathedral proudly displays its extensive building history from 1100 until the end of the 15^th Romanesque and Gothic elements alternate and accentuate one another. The interior with its monumental paintings and equally imposing sculptures is particularly splendid.
Santa Maria Assunta: It goes without saying that there’s a hint of Renaissance architecture in the heart of the city. Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta is situated on the Carignano hill right in the city centre. Construction of the central-plan building began in 1549 and took five decades. The basilica managed to retain its original charm despite extensive 19^th century remodelling.
Synagogue: Unlike other Genovese churches the synagogue is fairly young. The eclecticism-style building made of reinforced concrete with rock cladding was constructed in 1934-35. The upper floor houses a Jewish museum.
Santo Stefano: Situated on a lift, this church overlooks the main road Via XX Settembre. Legend has it that Columbus was baptised in Santo Stefano. This prime example of Ligurian Romanesque architecture was compacted over the course of several centuries – some chapels were demolished for lack of space – yet the church really shines ever since its de facto new construction after World War II.
Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno: The district of Staglieno is located a bit outside the city and is mainly associated with its cemetery of the same name. It stretches across an area exceeding 1 km² with numerous terraces, some of which are pretty steep. The cemetery even has its own minibus line for easier accessibility. Many tombs are exorbitantly pompous and form a sculpture park of sorts with 150 years’ worth of sculpting history in one place.

Even more sights in Genoa

Palaces, churches and cemeteries aside, the city of arts Genoa certainly has even more to offer. Here’s a selection of additional highlights:

Porto Antico: This list would be incomplete without the public, touristic harbour. It took until 1992 for the former industrial harbour to be enhanced and expanded, just in time for the Expo, Nowadays the Porto Antico equally attracts tourists and locals. Among the many highlights is the Acquario di Genova, Europe’s biggest aquarium.
Lighthouse: Genoa has two landmarks. One of them is the harbour lighthouse Torre della Lanterna di Genova on the hill of San Benigno. Europe’s tallest lighthouse stands at 76 metres. It is open to the public on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays, and has its own museum.
Fontana di Piazza de Ferrari: The second landmark stands on Piazza de Ferrari, the city’s central square. This imposing bronze fountain by architect Cesare Crosa di Vergagni, created in 1936, charmingly dominates the piazza.
University: One of Italy’s largest and most renowned universities is in Genoa. About 37,000 students are enrolled at the Università degli Studi di Genova. It was founded as early as 1471 per papal bull of Pope Sixtus IV and has additional faculties in Genoa as well as along the coast in La Spezia, Imperia and Savona. Among the most famous students are the popular Italian president Sandro Pertini and Pope Benedict XV, the pope of peace.
Teatro Carlo Felice: The former site of the Dominican church San Benedetto now accommodates of one of Italy’s most renowned operas. Air raids destroyed most of the original building from the 1820s including the valuable rococo ceiling. The old façade was eventually reconstructed. Teatro Carlo Felice now consists of a main hall with 2,000 seats and a 200-seat auditorium.

There’s so much more hidden behind the familiar gates of the former naval power Genoa – a genuine city of arts, that is! We recommend a multi-day stay on the Ligurian coast in order to fully experience and enjoy these and many other highlights. Best connect your visit with a tour up and down the coastline. You will not be disappointed.

A tour of the city of arts Turin in Piedmont

Aug 27 2020

Category: Travel Tips Author: Alexander Wagner

Cars, football, industry – that’s pretty much Turin in a nutshell… or is it? Footie fanatics are drawn to the eternal rivals Juventus and Torino FC, the world-renowned car manufacturer was founded here in 1899, and many other companies, such as Kappa, Lancia and Lavazza, made their first steps in Turin. And then there is the Cathedral with the Shroud of Turin, one of the most important artefacts of Christian belief. In all actuality, Turin – located in north-western Italy, about 100 km each from the French and the Swiss border – is a fascinating city of arts with gripping history and a plethora of equally awe-inspiring sights. We invite you to join us on a tour through the capital of Piedmont.

From Roman military camp to the industrial boom

By now you probably will not be surprised to hear that we first draw your attention to the history of Turin, which really is quite something. The name likely derives from “tau”, the Celtic word for “mountains”. Additionally, the Italian name “Torino” can be traced back to the folk-etymological expression for “small bull”, which is why Turin’s flag and coat of arms feature a bull. The Celtic-Ligurian Taurini tribe initially lived here before the Romans, who built a military camp around 28 BC. Its characteristic city structure with perpendicular streets remains present in the Quartiere Romano district. Around 5,000 inhabitants used to live inside Turin’s city walls back then.

Turin was ruled by the Lombards and the Franks after the fall of the Western Roman Empire before being conquered by the Dukes of Savoy in the late 13^th century. They set in motion a full reconstruction of the city in the 15^th century. Many of the famous gardens and palaces date back to this period, the university was founded in 1404, and Turin eventually even became the duchy’s capital. A 117-day siege of French troops during the War of the Spanish Succession was unsuccessful. After the unification of Italy Turin served as both its capital and seat of the king for four years. Then, the industrialisation resulted in an unprecedented boom. However, the industrial crisis of the 1980s put a devastating stop to this upswing. The population dropped significantly below one million where it has remained ever since.

The churches and basilicas

Bevor becoming the Savoy capital in 1563, Turin had a predominantly medieval look. This was changed during the extensive transfiguration leading to, among other things, new road axes and the destruction or alteration of all 21 parish churches. Turin is still home to numerous world-renowned churches and basilicas you absolutely must visit. We recommend:

Turin Cathedral: You probably will not be surprised by this first entry. After all, we briefly mentioned Turin Cathedral during our introduction. The Duomo di Torino is actually a rather plain building with a fairly unsophisticated design featuring classic Renaissance shapes, a marble façade and a campanile with baroque upper floors. We primarily mention Turin Cathedral because of the chapel behind its crossing, especially built for the Shroud of Turin and richly adorned. Looking to the heavens above you will be amazed by the imposing cupola. Despite having been debunked by science, many believers still venerate the linen sheet as the very sheet Jesus was buried in after the crucifixion.
Basilica of Our Lady Help of Christians: The Virgin Mary appeared to the Salesian Don Bosco in a dream in 1844 or 1845 showing him the place of martyrdom of the Turinese saints Solutore, Ottavio and Avventore. Don Bosco had the Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice built on this very spot. It was constructed during the second half of the 19^th century and houses the relics of the saints as well those of its canonised constructor.
San Lorenzo: Embedded rather inconspicuously in a row of palaces, this church on Piazza Castello looks like many buildings in this quarter. However, fascinating elements of Islamic architecture with skilful lighting tricks and imaginative shapes are hidden behind its façade.
Superga: Take the cog railway to the Superga hill in the city’s east to reach the eponymous church at an altitude of 672 m. You can even see the Alps if the weather is right. Immerse yourself in the world of baroque art from the huge perrons to the equally impressive cupola.

Turin’s palaces and castles

We do not want to spend too much time on the castles and palaces of Turin. It is not for the lack of breathtaking beauty – quite the opposite! – but rather because we have already dedicated an entire World Heritage article to the Residences of the House of Savoy which we cannot recommend highly enough for more information. Five of these 14 residences are situated directly in Turin:

Palazzo Reale
Palazzo Madama
Palazzo Carignano
Castello del Valentino
Villa della Regina

We must not forget Palazzina di Stupinigi, located about ten kilometres southwest of Turin and also part of this impressive UNESCO World Heritage Site. You most definitely should visit this baroque hunting seat, if only for its stunning architectural painting.

Even more sights in Turin

Still, we stay in Turin for now as the city of arts has so much more to offer. Here are some more essential sights:

Porta Palatina: Thick city walls used to enclose Turin in Roman times. One of the three large city gates survived, likely in part due to serving as a prison in the 18^th and 19^th century after several conversions. Porta Palatina has been restored and reconstructed since. Two modern replicas of ancient statues flank the brick gate with its two tall watchtowers.
Museo Egizio: This Turinese museum is solely dedicated to Egyptology and accommodates one of the largest collection of ancient Egyptian pieces in the world. Around 6,500 of the approx. 32,500 artefacts are on display. Numerous statues aside, Museo Egizio is particularly known for its extraordinary papyrus collection.
Galleria Sabauda: Located inside the World Heritage palace Palazzo Reale, this picture gallery predominantly features Italian, French and Dutch art from the 15^th to the 17^th Marvel at works by Tintoretto, Rembrandt, Guercino, Buoninsegna and many others.
Mole Antonelliana: This building was originally supposed to be a synagogue. When the Italian capital shifted to Florence during the second half of the 19^th century and the costs exploded, all such plans were cancelled. The enormous tower with a height of 167.5 m is now regarded as one of Turin’s landmarks and is home of the National Museum of Cinema. The lift takes you up to around 85 m for a gorgeous view with a hint of the Alps.
Lingotto building: Fiat’s Lingotto building used to be the largest automobile factory in the world. It even had its own test track for new cars on the roof. After the factory closed in 1982 during a devastating industrial crisis, the building was converted and modernised. It is now the home of a conference centre, a concert hall, a hotel, a shopping centre, and the art museum Pinacoteca Giovannni e Marella Agnelli with pieces from the collection of the Fiat couple. By the way, the test track on the roof still exists. You can check it out and even walk on it.

Turin has all sorts of highlights in store. Visit world-famous pilgrimage sites, be enchanted by ostentatious palaces and castles, and experience the city’s eventful industrial history up close. And yes, you absolutely should visit one of the awe-inspiring football stadiums. Enjoy your trip to the heart of Piedmont!

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Cremona – city of arts with great musical tradition

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Brescia – Roman-Lombard city of arts

Bergamo – hilly city of arts with cable cars

Como – city of arts with many different ruler

Genoa – from naval power to magical city of arts

A tour of the city of arts Turin in Piedmont

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Zainoo - and the journy begins